DIY Network

Croppin' Style: Victorian-Inspired Crop Sweater A modern take on feminine Victorian styling From "Knitty Gritty" episode DKNG-711

Vickie Howell is joined by Iris Schreier, the queen of multidirectional knitting, for a project with lots of style: a lovely cropped sweater with Victorian influence. This silk-and-mohair confection starts with three stitches in the center front and "grows" out from there; the live stitches on the inside edge are worked to form an attractive V-shaped neckline in a lace shell stitch that resembles an openwork crocheted fan stitch. Coordinating sleeves put the final touch on this fun cropped top. Not a project for the faint of heart, but with patience and enthusiasm the end product is laced with tremendously fashionable results.

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Victorian-Inspired Crop Sweater

Materials:

2 skeins Artyarns Silk Rhapsody (100% silk and 70% mohair/30% silk blend, 3-1/2oz/100g = 260yd per skein) (A)
1 skein Artyarns Beaded Silk (100% silk yarn with silver glass beads, 1.8oz/50g = 100yd per skein) (B)
clip-on stitch markers
stitch holders
minimum 24" long circular needles US size 8 (for body)
crochet hook, US size 6
tapestry needle

Notes and Tips

• Yarn A is used for the front, back and sleeves, and B is used for the beaded trim around the neckline and at the sleeve cuffs.

• Silk Rhapsody and Beaded Silk are fibers with very little give, meaning that they barely stretch or spring back as they're being knitted. Knitted fabric with silk becomes very stretchy, however, and this additional ease must be taken into account as you swatch, measure and knit the garments. Often silk garments look small but fit well when worn. Be very careful when attempting to substitute rayon or cotton in fitted multidirectional garments. Check not only the gauge but also the weight of the yarn. If your yarn is heavier than the one used in the garment, the knitted fabric will weigh more and may not fit properly. Therefore, choose any substitute yarns based on the yards/meters per ounce/gram.

• It's best to hand-wash this garment carefully with a very mild soap specifically meant for fine washables. Do not wring it, but after soaking it in a cool, mild soap bath and rinsing, roll it in a towel to absorb the excess moisture and carefully lay it on a flat surface to dry completely without being moved.

• Blocking is usually unnecessary because the garment is worked primarily in garter stitch. If blocking is desired, however, use a hand steamer or an iron. If you're using an iron, make sure to place a protective cloth, such as a dishtowel, between the hot iron and the knitted fabric.

Measurements

Small (Medium, Large):

• Bust: 30/32 (34/36, 38/40"
  
• Length from shoulder to bottom edge: 14" (14-3/4", 15-1/2")

St Abbreviations

sl 1 slip 1 st by transferring it from 1 needle as though to knit with yarn in back
skp slip, knit, pass (slip 1 st as if to knit with yarn in back, knit the second st, pass the slipped st over the knitted st [a decrease of 1 st])
ssp slip, slip, pass (slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, pass the first slipped st over the second slipped st [a decrease of 1 st])
inc 1 increase 1 (knit into the front and the back of the same st [an increase of 1 st])
k2tog knit 2 sts together as though they were 1 st (a decrease of 1 st)
pm place st marker
rm remove st marker

Note: Repeat steps provided twice to make front and back pieces; front and back are identical to each other.

Center Increase Triangle

Figure A

With A, cast on 3 sts.
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k1.
Row 2: Inc 1, inc 1, pm, k2.
Row 3: Inc 1, k to marker, rm, inc 1, pm, k to end.
Repeat Row 3 until there are 66 (70, 74) sts on needle (figure A).
Next row: Skp, k to marker, rm, inc 1, pm, k to end.
Repeat this row a total of 14 (18, 20) times.
Leaving working yarn attached, place half the sts farthest from working yarn on a holder.

Squaring Off the Sides (worked separately)

Figure B

Note: Every row is actually a ridge, consisting of two rows: the first part of the instruction is worked toward the center, the work is turned and the second part of the instruction is worked toward the edge. You will be leaving stitches behind; one stitch per row will be left unknitted and these stitches will be used later to create the V neckline (figure B).

Rows 1-2: Skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn; inc 1, pm, k to end.
Row 3: K to marker, rm, k1, turn; inc 1, pm, k to end.
Rows 4-9: Repeat Rows 1-3 twice.
Next Row: Skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn; inc 1, pm, k to end.

Armhole and Shoulder Shaping

Armhole:
Row 1: Skp, bind off 3 sts, k to marker, rm, k1, turn; inc 1, pm, k to end.
Row 2: Repeat Row 1.
Row 3: Skp, bind off 1 st, k to marker, rm, k1, turn; inc 1, pm, k to end.
Row 4: Repeat Row 3.
Row 5: Skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn; inc 1,pm, k to end.
Repeat Row 5 until there are 11 (11, 12) sts left on the working side of the marker.
Repeat this row until armhole measures 8-1/2 (8-1/2, 9)".

Binding off shoulder:
Row 1: Skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn; skp, k to end.
Row 2: Skp, k to end.
Repeat Row 2 until 2 sts left, bind off, cut yarn. Place all sts left behind on st holder 2.

Working From the Center

Note: Transfer stitches from stitch holder 1 onto left needle, with center stitch in position to be worked first (edge stitch is last.) Attach yarn, and work as follows:

Row 1-2: Inc 1, pm, k to end, turn; skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn.
Row 3: Inc 1, pm, k to end, turn; k to marker, rm, k1, turn.
Rows 4-9: Repeat Rows 1-4 twice.
Next row: Inc 1, pm, k to end, turn; skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn.

Armhole and shoulder shaping:
Row 1: Inc 1, pm, k to end, turn; skp, bind off 3 sts, k to marker, rm, k1, turn.
Row 2: Repeat Row 1.
Row 3: Inc 1, pm, k to end, turn; skp, bind off 1 st, k to marker, rm, k1, turn.
Row 4: Repeat Row 3.
Row 5: Inc 1, pm, k to end, turn; skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn.
Repeat Row 5 an additional time, or until there are 11(11, 12) sts left on the working side of the marker, then work even.
Next row: Inc 1, pm, inc 1, k to end, turn; skp, k to marker, rm, k1, turn;
Repeat this row until armhole measures 8-1/2 (8-1/2, 9)". Count the stitches on stitch holder 2 to ensure that the same number of stitches have been left behind for this side of the V neckline.

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