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Devil Hat Show your naughty side with this devilish horned hat. From "Knitty Gritty" episode DKNG-706

(Continued from page 2)

Here are a few helpful notes from the designer regarding the horns.

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• I recommend knitting the horns at a time when you will be undisturbed for at least half an hour: they will demand your full attention.

• The graph (see link, at right) is provided to keep you from getting off track while knitting these tricky horns. The graph shows how many sts are on each needle in a given row. So if you feel you've gotten off track, or if you're interrupted before completing a horn, check the chart. The yarn end marks where each row begins.

• My directions will not lead you to perform an awkward action across two dpns. For example: The ssk always appears at the beginning of the needle, and the k2 tog always appears at the end of the needle, so if you need to pass a st from one dpn to the next to accomplish one of these, you've lost your place. The decreases all line up to define the horns, so it they're not lining up, check your decrease technique or you've lost your place.

• After working short row wraps, on the subsequent row you will pick up the wrap and knit it tog with the st to make it disappear, and occasionally doing ssk or k2 tog at the same time.

• It's difficult to knit the last rows very tightly. Improve the appearance of the horn tip by tightening up the sts with any pointed object once the horn is off the needle, or by knitting the last 3 rows with a smaller size needle. I used a darning needle to pull them tight.

PDF Horn reference chart: click to enlarge.

Right horn:
Round 1: Leaving a yarn tail of 24"/61cm, cast on 24 sts onto one dpn. K first 9 sts, then with second dpn k8 sts, then on third dpn k6. Sl last st remaining onto first dpn to join rnd, being careful not to twist the sts.
Round 2: K2tog, [k6, k2 tog] twice, k5, sl last st wyif — 21 sts.

Short row 1: Turn work; sl 1 wyif, p5; p6, sl last st wyif.
Short row 2: Turn work; sl 1 wyif, k6; k5, sl 1. Lift wrap onto right needle. Sl wrap and slipped st back to left needle and k2tog.

Round 3: K8, lift wrap onto needle and k2tog, [k4, k2tog] twice — 19 sts.
Round 4: K6, k2tog, k6, k4, sl last st wyif — 18 sts.

Short row 3: Turn work; sl 1 wyif, p4; p5, sl last st wyif.
Short row 4: Turn work, sl 1 wyif, k3, k2 tog, k4, sl last st, lift wrap onto needle and k2 tog.

Round 5: K7, lift wrap onto needle and k2tog, k4; k3, k2 tog — 16 sts.
Round 6: K5, k2tog, k5; k3, sl 1 wyif — 15 sts.

Short row 5: Turn work, sl 1 wyif, p3; p4, sl last st wyif.
Short row 6: Turn work, sl 1 wyif, k2, k2 tog, k2, sl next 2 sts as if to k2 tog, then lift wrap onto needle and k3tog.

Round 7: K6, lift wrap onto needle and k2 tog, k3; k3 — 13 sts.
Round 8: K4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, drop left needle and continue to k next sts onto right needle, k1, k2tog — 10 sts.
Round 9: [K5] twice.
Round 10: K3, k2tog, k5 — 9 sts.
Round 11: K2, k2tog, k3, k2tog — 7 sts.
Round 12: K3, k1, k2tog, k1, drop left needle and use next dpn to k1, k2 tog.
Round 13: Slide sts to other end of needle wyib, k1, k2tog, k2 — 4 sts.
Round 14: Slide sts to other end of needle wyib, [k2tog] twice — 2 sts.
Round 15: Slide sts to other end of needle wyib, k2tog, pull yarn end through and use a darning needle to carefully draw the yarn end inside the horn through the tip.

Left horn:
Round 1: Leaving a yarn tail of 24"/61cm, cast on 24 sts onto one dpn. K first 9 sts, then with second dpn k7 sts, then on third dpn k7. Sl last st remaining onto first dpn to join rnd, being careful not to twist the sts. Ssk (slipped st with the first st cast on st) and sl new st back to left needle — 23 sts.
Round 2: K8, [ssk, k5] twice, sl last st wyif — 21 sts.

Short row 1: Turn work, sl 1 wyif, p6; p5, sl last st wyif.
Short row 2: Turn work, sl 1 wyif, k5; k6, lift wrap onto needle and k2tog.

Round 3: K8, lift wrap onto needle and ssk, k4, ssk, k5 — 19 sts.
Round 4: Ssk, k6; k5; k5, sl last st wyif — 18 sts.

Short row 3: Turn work, sl 1 wyif, p5; p4,sl last st wyif.
Short row 4: Turn work, sl 1 wyif, k4, ssk, k3, lift wrap onto needle and k2 tog.

Round 5: K7, lift wrap onto needle and ssk, K3; k5 — 16 sts.
Round 6: Ssk, k5; k4, ssk, k2, sl last st wyif — 14 sts.

Short row 5: Turn work, sl 1 wyif, p3; p2, ssp, sl st on next needle wyif, and sl back to left needle wyib.
Short row 6: Turn work, k3; k3, lift wrap onto needle and k2tog.

Round 7: K5, lift wrap onto needle and k2tog, k3, ssk, k2 — 12 sts.
Round 8: Ssk, k4, ssk, k1, drop left needle and k3 — 10 sts.
Round9: [K5] twice.
Round 10: K5, ssk, k3 — 9 sts.
Round 11: SskK, k3; k1, ssk, k1 — 7 sts.
Round 12: Ssk, k2; k3 — 6 sts.
Round 13: K3, drop needle, ssk, k1 — 5 sts.
Round 14: Slide sts to other end of needle wyib, ssk, k3 — 4 sts.
Round 15: Slide sts to other end of needle wyib, [ssk] twice.
Round 16: Slide sts to other end of needle and k2tog. Pull yarn end through and use a darning needle to carefully draw the yarn end inside the horn through the tip.

Stuff and Attach Horns

The horns, in progress

1. Cut out two small pieces of batting shaped like a shark's fin, the same size as the horn profile. Gently insert the batting into the horns. Do not overstuff or use stuffing not cut to shape, or the horns will bulge.

2. Pin the horns onto the hat with large safety pins and try it on before using the yarn tail remaining from the cast-on row to stitch them down with Kitchener grafting. Place horns symmetrically, 3"/7.5cm apart from each other for Small/Medium and 3.5"/9cm apart for Large, and .5"/1.25cm from the edging.

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