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Devil Hat Show your naughty side with this devilish horned hat. From "Knitty Gritty" episode DKNG-706

(Continued from page 1)

Here are a few notes on gussets.

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Devil Hat

• Gussets are symmetrical for the Small size but not for Medium and Large.

• When picking up stitches, pick up one stitch for every two rows by inserting the needle into the "bead" or "knot" formed by the interlocking stitches at the edge.

• Fold the strip in half end to end and at the fold. Mark the center where you will pick up stitches for the crown. When doing this, fold so the back edge is 1/2" away from the front edge. Mark this center stitch on both edges of the crown.

Right Gusset

Prep row: From right side of fabric and 3 sts right of center, pick up and 3 sts before the center marking and 3 sts after it. You now have an equal number of beads remaining on either side of the sts you just picked up — 6 sts.

Row 1: Turn, p6, pick up and p2 — 8 sts.
Row 2: Turn, k8, pick up and k2 — 10 sts. Sl marker, k2.
Row 3: Turn, p10, pick up and p1 (2, 2) — 11 (12, 12) sts.
Row 4: Turn, k11 (12, 12), pick up and k1 (2, 2) — 12 (14, 14) sts.
Row 5: Turn, p12 (14, 14), pick up and p1 — 13 (15, 15) sts.
Row 6: Turn, k13 (15, 15), pick up and k1(2, 2) — 14 (17, 17) sts.
Row 7: Turn, p14 (17, 17), pick up and p1 — 15 (18, 18) sts.

Large size only:
Row 8: Turn, k18, pick up and k1 st at end of row — 19 sts.
Row 9: Turn, p18, sl last st, pick up and p1 st, psso — 19 sts.
Row 10: Turn, k19, pick up and k1 — 20 sts.

All sizes:
The (sl 1, pick and p1 or k1, psso) at the end of the following rows (and in Row 9, above) are actually joining the gusset to the hat and creating a seam perpendicular to the band, which hasn't been knitted yet. This is done by picking up and knitting or purling a loop from the next "bead" on the edge of the center strip, then passing the slipped stitch over.

All sizes:
Row 8 (8, 11): Turn, k14 (17, 19), sl last st, pick up and k1, psso — 15 (18, 20) sts.
Row 9 (9, 12): Turn, p14 (17, 19); pick up and p1, psso — 15 (18, 20) sts.
Repeat rows 8-9 (8-9, 11-12) until the gusset is the same length as the back of the hat and the gusset meets the first of the band sts on the holder. End with RS row so that the yarn meets the sts on the holder. If you do not break the yarn here, you may use it to knit the band next. Place sts on holder.

Left Gusset

For Small, work as for Right Gusset; work Medium and Large sizes as follows:

Prep row-row 4: Work as for Right Gusset.
Row 5: Turn, p14, pick up and p2 — 16 sts.
Row 6: Turn, k16, pick up and k1 — 17 sts.
Row 7: Turn, p17, pick up and p1 — 18 sts.

Note: For Large only, knit the next 3 rows. For Small and Medium, skip to Row 11.

Large size only:
Row 8: Turn, k18, pick up and k1 st — 19 sts.
Row 9: Turn, p18, pick up and p1 — 19 sts.
Row 10: Turn, k18, sl last st, pick up and k1, psso — 20 sts.

All sizes:
Cont as for Right Gusset, end with a WS row so that the yarn meets the sts on the holder. If you do not break the yarn here, you may use it to knit the nape next. Place sts on holder. You have a total of 61 (67, 71) sts: 15 (18, 20) sts for each gusset, 23 sts on center holder and 4 sts on hold on each side of that.

Construction Steps

1. Knit temple stitches from the holder into short edging at temple, graft at temple, then knit all stitches together into nape and earflaps.

2. Knit long ties and arrow points.

3. Knit the horns, stuff them and graft them onto the hat.

Short Temple Edging

Edging — right side:
Row 1: (RS) Sl 4 sts from holder to needle and k2 tog, p1, k1 — 3 sts.
Row 2: P1, k1, p1.
Row 3: K1, p1, k1.
Rep for a total of 6 (8, 10) rows. Sl sts to holder.

Edging — left side:
Work as for Right Side for a total of 6 (8, 10) rows. Sl sts to holder.

Attach edging at temple:
Graft the front 5 (7, 8) sts from each gusset to the side of both edgings. This join will be concealed by the horn later, so technique is less important. The edging should now be the same length as the back of the hat. Sl edging, gusset and center sts to the same needle so you can knit them as one piece — 49 (51, 53) sts. Do not cut the sewing yarn here, because this is a stress point. Weave this yarn in invisibly and secure it. If the yarn end is long, you may continue knitting with it for several stitches before splicing in a new ball.

Nape:
Row 1: K1, p1, k to last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Row 2 and all WS rows: P1, k1, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Row 3: K1, p1, k21 (22, 49), [sl2-k1-psso] 1 (1, 0) times, k to last 2 sts, p1, k1 — 47 (49, 53) sts.
Rows 5 and 7: Rep Row 1.
Row 9: K1, p1, k20 (21, 23), sl 2-k1-psso and mark as center st, k to last 2 sts, p1, k1 — 45 (47, 51) sts.
Row 11: K1, p1, k10 (11, 13), pm, rli, k21, lli, pm, k to last 2 sts, p1, k1 — 47 (49, 53) sts.
Row 12: P1, k1, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Row 13: K1, p1, k to marker & sl, rli, k to 1 st before center marked st, sl2-k1-psso, k to marker, lli, sl marker, k to last 2 sts, p1, k1 — 47 (49, 53) sts.
Row 14: P1, k1, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Row 15: K1, p1, k to marker & sl, rli, k to last marker, lli, sl marker, k to last 2 sts, p1, k1 — 49 (51, 55) sts.
Rows 16-31: Rep rows 12-15 four times — 55 (57, 61) sts.

Left flap:
Split at nape for left flap as follows:
Prep row: (WS) P1, k1, p21 and sl those 23 sts to a holder; bind off 9 (11, 15) sts loosely, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1 — 23 sts each flap
Row 1: (RS) K1, p1, k to last 4 sts, k2 tog, p1, k1 — 22 sts.
Row 2 & all WS rows through Row 16: P1, k1, p2 tog, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Row 3: K1, p1, k9, rli, k6, k2 tog, p1, k1 — 21 sts.
Row 5: K1, p1, k to last 4 sts, k2 tog, p1, k1 — 19 sts.
Row 6: P1, k1, p2 tog, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1 — 18 sts.
Rows 7-12: Rep rows 5-6 three times — 12 sts.
Rows 13 & 15: K1, p1, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2 tog, p1, k1 — 7 sts at end of Row 15.
Row 17: K1, p1, ssk, p1, k1 — 5 sts.
Row 18: P1, ssp, k1, p1 — 4 sts.
Row 19: K1, p1, k2 tog — 3 sts.
Row 20: P1, k1, p1 — 3 sts.
Row 21: K1, p1, k1.
Rep rows 20-21 until piece is 8"/20.5cm long or desired length, ending with a Row 20. Finish with arrow point.

Arrow point:
Prep row: *P1, but do not remove st from needle; sl the st you just made back to the left needle; rep from * twice more — 3 new sts, 6 sts total.
Row 1: [K1, p1] 3 times, insert left needle into bead of st below last st worked and p it. Cast on 2 more sts before turning — 9 sts.
Row 2: [P1, k1] twice, lli, p1, rli, [k1, p1] twice — 11 sts.
Row 3: Ssk, k1, p1, k3, p1, k1, k2 tog — 9 sts.
Row 4: P2, k1, p3, k1, p2.
Row 5: Ssk, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k2 tog — 7 sts.
Row 6: P1, sk, sl2-k1-psso, k2 tog — 5 sts.
Row 8: P3.
Row 9: Sl 2-k1-psso. Cut yarn and pull end through. Weave end in.

Right flap:
Sl sts from holder to needle.
Row 1: Join yarn at center back and k1, p1, ssk, k17, p1, k1 — 22.
Row 2 & all WS rows through Row 16: p1, k1, p to last 4 sts, ssp, k1, p1 — 21 sts.
Row 3: K1, p1, ssk, k6, lli, k9, p1, k1 — 21 sts.
Row 5: K1, p1, ssk, k to last 2 sts, p1, k1 — 19 sts.
Row 6: P1, k1, p to last 4 sts, ssp, k1, p1 — 18 sts.
Rows 7-12: Rep rows 5-6 three times — 12 sts.
Rows 13 & 15: K1, p1, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2 tog, p1, k1 — 7 sts at end of Row 15.
Row 17: K1, p1, k2 tog, p1, k1 — 5 sts.
Row 18: P1, k1, k2 tog, p1 — 4 sts.
Row 19: K1, p2 tog, k1 — 3 sts.
Row 20: P1, k1, p1.
Row 21: K1, p1, k1.
Rep Row 20-21 until piece is 11"/28cm long or desired length, ending with a Row 20.

Note: The ties are different lengths just to be a little more devilish! Finish with arrow point as for left flap.

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