DIY Network

Alternative Knits Let your imagination run wild with these ideas for avant-garde knits. From "Knitty Gritty" episode DKNG-810

Cutting-edge knitwear designer John Brinegar demonstrates the drop-stitch technique, which is a great design feature to add to an otherwise plain knit. So put an end to plain and make that project "sing" a unique tune.

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Dropped-stitch "tear" effect:

The wrong side tends to show off this stitch pattern a little better.

Decide where you want the "snags" or "tears" to appear in the garment. Beginning with a rs, at the point you are ready, simply start by doing one yo and working to the end of the row. On the following row, you will drop that yo and create another one. Repeat this twice more, and then increase the number of yo to 2. Drop all subsequent yo and create the same number in their place. To taper the other end of the tear or snag, you will go back to doing a single yor for the same number of times you began with. Continue with the garment as usual after completing.

To achieve a larger gap in the tear or snag, you would simply increase the number yo. The more you do, the wider the strand will be. For example, if you do 4 yo, you would have a very large gap. Experimentation is the key — and have fun. The ws of this stitch pattern tends to show it off a little better.

Embellishing Knits

Segment Overview:
John Brinegar uses hardware to embellish knits by adding a chain necklace to a sweater and gathering a loose sweater in the back with a chain for a more tailored fit. He then demonstrates 3 unique ways of seaming knit garments: down-stitch seaming, X-out seaming and drop-stitch seaming.

Bonus Pattern: Basic Drop-Shoulder Crewneck With Down-Stitch Seaming

Finished Measurements (approximate): chest = 26 (28, 30, 32)"

Materials:

Karabella "Iris" in color 8 (MC) 8 (9, 10,11) balls and color 11 (CC)-1 (1, 1, 2) balls
16" and 24" circular needles, US 10.5
tapestry needle
ring stitch marker

Gauge: 14 sts and 19 rows = 4" in st st on US 10.5

Skill level: easy

Attaching a "hardware necklace":

Using 2 different lengths of decorative chains and 2 jump rings, attach one ring and one end of each chain to the point of your garment where the innermost point of the shoulder seam meets the neckline. Fasten the jump ring closed with small needle-nose pliers. Repeat this on the other side, draping the chain where you wish.

Adding jump rings to gather fabric:

If you have a garment that is much too big, or if you simply want another effect, you can use jump rings to bring it together. It's easiest to hook the rings through a single stitch, but experiment with it: it might be okay for your garment to use several stitches. Simply pull in the fabric where you want it to gather and attach a few rings or many. Putting many rings along the back is very interesting when done symmetrically.

Down-stitch seaming:

Insert the yarn from the wrong side of the garment, leaving a tail for weaving. Using regular seaming, pick up the first 2 bars of the knit stitch on the opposite piece. Continue seaming back and forth, and on every other stitch on the first piece, count down 2 rows from where you normally would insert to seam. Leave the extra yarn there, and work back and forth, making sure the elongated loops achieve the same lengths.

X-out seaming:

PDF X-out chart: click to enlarge.

Insert the yarn from the wrong side of the garment, leaving a tail for weaving. Seam according to the diagram (see link, at right), assuming the point which you inserted the yarn to start seaming is point 1.

1. You will start with 1, 2, 3, 4.
2. Continue according to the diagram, only hitting points 2, 2, 4.
3. Repeat step 2 across.

It takes practice to get both of these techniques down. The key is to leave the same amount of yarn for the down-stitch seaming to make the loops even. And on X-out seaming, keep the space between the garment pieces even, and the Xs pulled evenly. Keep in mind that this seam leaves space between the garment pieces, and you'll want to do it only where that's attractive (maybe not along the side of your sweater — it works best for shoulder seams).

Back:
Using MC and 10.5 16" circulars, co 54(58,62,66) sts. The first st of each row is slipped purlwise and the last st of each row is knitted. Work k2p2 rib for 6 rows. Switch to st st and work even until piece measures 14(16,18,20)". Bo all sts on rs.

Front:
Work as for back, until piece measures 12 (14,16,18)", ending with ws row.

Crewneck shaping:
With RS facing, work 23 (24,24,26) sts, (including selvage), join new ball of yarn and bo 8 (10,14,14) sts for front neck. Work to end. There will be 23 (24,24,26) sts on either side. Working each row the same, work 1 row (ws) turn, and bo 2 sts at each neck edge 2 (2,1,1) time(s). Beginning w/next rs row, dec 1 st every rs row at neck edge 2(2,3,3) times. Work 2 rows even, then bo all sts on rs row.

Sleeves:
Using 10.5 24" circulars and CC, co 26 (28,30,32) sts. Work selvage edging and k1p1 rib for 2 rows (all sizes). Change to MC and work 4 rows k1p1 rib. Change to st st and inc 1 st at each end on rs every 4 rows 14 (11,11,11) times. Then inc 1 st at each end on rs every 6 rows 0 (4,5,6) times. Bo all sts on rs.

Collar:
Using 10.5 (16") circulars and CC, starting at shoulder, pick up and k 1 st for every bo st, and about 3 sts for every 4 rows along the neck edgings. Adjust the sts to achieve an even number, as you will work k1p1 rib. Place st marker, join round and work 2 (2,4,4) rounds in k1p1 rib, bo in rib.

Seaming:
You will seam the shoulders first, using the down-stitch seaming technique. Next, attach the sleeves using the same technique, and sew remaining sides together with regular invisible seaming. Weave in all ends, using the down-stitch seaming technique.

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