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"Hooray for Me" Gloves

A knitting project for warm hands and nimble fingers...

From "Knitty Gritty"
episode DKNG-605

Keep your hands warm and your fingers free to grasp with this functional, fun glove design.

"Hooray for Me" half-finger glove design by Marnie MacLean

Guest Marnie MacLean shares her technique for knitting "Hooray for Me" gloves.

Materials:
#2 double-pointed needles (set of 5)
yarn - 1.5 skeins of Regia Sock Yarn in Multi Effekt Color (your choice of color)
stitch markers
stitch holders or waste thread
tapestry needle
cotton crochet thread

Gauge
34 stitches x 44 rows = 4"

Special Stitches
When Casting On (CO) stitches in the middle of a round (for instance, between fingers), knit to the point indicated, then work a knitted on, cable or backward loop cast on. On the next round, knit these additional stitches normally.

Working with Double-Pointed Needles
For the body of the glove, guest Marnie MacLean has used 5 double-pointed needles but found it frustrating working the small fingers. Now she uses a double-knit technique to work those in. It involves placing all the stitches on a single needle and alternating between front and back stitches. Here's how Marnie accomplishes it:

Place the back stitches on one double-pointed needle and the front stitches on another. Use a third double-pointed needle to pick up a stitch from the front, then back, then front, then back, repeating until all stitches are on a single needle.
*K the first stitch, bring yarn forward as if to purl, slip the next stitch, bring yarn back.* repeat to end of row and turn. Repeat on other side. You have now done a single round. Repeat as needed to get proper length.

Some people suggest working double-knit inside out so that you purl every other stitch and don't need to throw the yarn back and forth before and after the slip stitches, but this leaves a ladder at each end. Regardless, this is only a suggestion. Feel free to work these stitches in the round on multiple double-pointed needles if that suits you better.

Glove Body

Body of Glove

CO 58 ensuring you begin at the start of a pattern change in the yarn. Place stitch marker (SM) between first and last stitch. Distribute stitches evenly over 4 double-pointed needles (15 st on first needle, 14 on second, 15 on third, 14 on fourth) (figures A and B).

Figure A

Figure B

Important note - If you wish to change the size, you should subtract or add stitches in multiples of 4. This will allow you to evenly adjust the stitches when it comes time to work the fingers.

Work 1x1 ribbing for a couple inches or until cuff is desired length. Marnie likes to start at the beginning of a transition in the yarn's self patterning and end at the end of one. This makes matching the second glove easier.
K1 round.

Thumb Gore

K first 2 needles of stitches. K 3 stitches of 3rd needle. Place a SM, increase by knitting in front and back loop of next 2 stitches, place another SM, complete round.
*K2 rounds straight. K to SM, Inc in next stitch, K to within one stitch of next SM, inc in next stitch, k to end of round.*
Repeat from * to * until you have 20 stitches between SMs.
K 1 row.
K to thumb gore. Move stitches between SM to crochet thread or stitch holder. CO 2 stitches to fill in gap and complete round.
K19 rounds straight or until glove is at the base of fingers.
Break thread.
Place all stitches on crochet cotton waste thread. As you work the fingers, keep this thread in place, it will be your "lifeline" if you wish you rip out the fingers for any reason.

Important note - If you changed the original size of the glove, you will need to adjust the number of stitches picked up for each finger. For instance, if you subtracted 8 stitches from the original Cast On, you will need to subtract 2 from the number of stitches indicated for each finger (4 fingers with 8 lost stitches = 2 stitches per finger).

Figure C

Index Finger

Fold glove so that thumb is to one side and folded in half. This glove is worked to fit either hand so you want to make sure that you keep the thumb centered.
Starting at the beginning of the next self patterning transition in the yarn:

PU the 16 stitches closest to the thumb—8 in front and 8 in back. (figure C)

K first 8 stitches, from thumb end to middle, CO 2 stitches, K remaining 8 stitches.

Work these 18 stitches for a total of 11 rounds. BO as though working a 1 x 1 ribbing.

Cut thread and then cut yarn between this and the next pattern change. Save this extra yarn for the ring finger.

Middle Finger

Start yarn at next self patterning transition.
PU 7 stitches from front, and 8 stitches from back of glove.
K first 7 stitches, CO 2, k remaining 8 stitches, PU 2 stitches from index finger.
Work for 12 rounds total. BO as though working a 1x1 ribbing.
Cut thread and then cut between this and the next pattern change. Save this extra yarn for the pinky finger.

Ring Finger

Start yarn at next self patterning transition.
PU 7 stitches in front and 7 stitches in back.
K 7 stitches, CO 2, K remaining 7 stitches, PU 2 stitches from middle finger.
K for a total of 11 rounds.
BO as though working a 1x1 ribbing.

Pinky Finger

Using remaining yarn from middle finger.
PU remaining stitches. K around then PU 2 stitches from ring finger.
Work for a total of 7 rows.
BO as though working a 1x1 ribbing.

Thumb

Start yarn at next self patterning transition.
Move all thumb gore stitches to double-pointed needles.
K around and PU 2 stitches from edge of glove to close hole.
K 6 total rounds, then BO as though working a 1x1 ribbing.

Finishing
Weave in all ends. Use scrap yarn to close up any holes between fingers. If you find the yarn a little itchy, wash with conditioner and tepid water. Dry flat.

Figure D

Wristlets
Marnie also demonstrated how to create this pair of wristlets (figure D). They were worked flat with ribbing at the bottom using self-patterning sock yarn. The body of the glove was worked in stockinette. The top of the glove has a few rows of ribbing and was bound off. Marnie seamed up the glove and left an opening for the thumb.