| Immersion Dyeing |
| Immersion Dyeing |
From "Knitty Gritty" episode DKNG-305 |
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Think dyeing your own yarn is too difficult? Think again! Using Liz Gipson's techniques, even a novice can create gorgeous one-of-a-kind fibers.
Knit-O-Meter Rating: Beginner.Note: Please observe the following precautions whenever you are dyeing: - Use equipment only for dyeing, not for food.
- Wear old clothes and an apron or smock.
- Use gloves and a dust mask when you're mixing powdered chemicals and dyes.
- Wipe up spills immediately with a damp paper towel and throw away.
- Do not eat or drink while you work with dyes.
- Use nonreactrive plastic cups, bucket and spoons and stainless or enamel pots.
- Work in a well-ventilated area; do not dye in the kitchen.
The first technique uses acid dyes, which like animal fibers such as wool or mohair.
Materials (figure A):Cushing dye rubber gloves pH strips (available where aquarium supplies are sold) fiber or yarn of a different type from the yarn you're dyeing measuring spoons dust mask (when working with powdered dyes) wet sponge for cleaning up spills mild detergent white vinegar tongs or an old spoon nonreactive dyepot (such as enamel or stainless steel, not aluminum) heat source apron optional: water softener 1. The yarn to be dyed should be in skein form, well secured (with a different type of yarn or fiber, which will resist the dye) and prewashed with a mild detergent, and it should be wet through when it goes into the dyebath. 2. Start by dissolving the dye powder in a small amount of boiling water; this is the dye liquor. A pack of dye will dye a pound of fiber to a medium shade (remember to wear a dust mask when mixing the dye).
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 Figure B
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 Figure C
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 Figure D
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3. The dyebath consists of water, vinegar, water softener if the water is hard and the dye liquor. You will need a big enough dyepot and enough water for the material to move freely; otherwise it will not dye evenly. Add a cup of common white vinegar per pound of material to make the dyebath acid. If the water is hard, fabric softener can aid the dyeing process by allowing better penetration of the dye into the fiber. Finally, add the dye solution and stir thoroughly.4. Gently squeeze out the prewashed material and add it to the dyepot (figure B). Continue to stir as the dyepot comes to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes. The dyebath will become clearer as it is exhausted (figure C); that is, as the color is taken up into the goods. Different colors take up at different rates. For example, blue takes up faster, and at lower temperatures, than yellow. So a green dye, made up of blue and yellow, will start out by turning the fiber mostly blue. The yellow will develop later, making green. 5. If the goods are removed prematurely, uneven or off-shade (in this case excessively blue) dyeing may result. It is important to let the dyebath simmer until take-up is complete. After the dyebath is exhausted, remove the pot from the heat and allow everything to come to room temperature. Rinse the material well in cold water (figure D) and allow to dry.
These instructions are adapted with permission from the Earthguild website (see Resources list, below).
RESOURCES :
The Dyer's Companion
By Dagmar Klos
Interweave Press, 2004 Interweave Press Inc.
Website: www.interweave.com
The Twisted Sisters Sock Workbook
By Lynne Vogel
Interweave Press, 2002 Interweave Press Inc.
Website: www.interweave.com
Hands on Dyeing
By Betsy Blumenthal and Kathryn Kreider
Interweave Press, 1988 Interweave Press Inc.
Website: www.interweave.com
Color Works
By Deb Menz
Interweave Press, 2004 Interweave Press Inc.
Website: www.interweave.com
Euroflax Geneva yarn
Louet Sales
Web: louet.com
E-mail: info@louet.com
Leba kid mohair/wool blend yarn
Louet Sales
Web: louet.com
E-mail: info@louet.com
Dye starter sets and Cushing dye Earthguild
E-mail: inform@earthguild.com;
catalog@earthguild.com
Website: www.earthguild.com
GUESTS :
Liz Gipson
Managing editor, Handwoven magazine
E-mail: lizg@interweave.com
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