DIY Network

Accessories Accessories From "Material Girls" episode DMTG-104

Now for the finishing touches. In this segment, Cat describes how fabric was attached to a sconce and draped over Zoe's headboard to create a canopy effect. Other finishing touches include a dust ruffle and tie curtains in Zoe's room and butterfly curtains, throw pillows and a table cover in Paul's bedroom. Kelly also describes how she built a box out of plywood and covered it with batting and fabric to create a child-friendly home for toys.

advertisement

Tablecloth

Tablecloth

Materials:

fabric
cording
thread
sewing machine
scissors
chalk
tape measure

1. Measure the diameter of the table and the distance from the table edge to the floor. To determine the length and width of the fabric needed, multiply the height of the table (30") by 2, add the diameter (29-3/4") and add 2" for the hem.

2. To determine the amount of fabric needed, use the following formula:

• Number of widths of fabric needed x length needed = amount of fabric.

3. Add 1" seam allowances for pieces being sewed together.

4. Divide the measurements by 36 to convert to yards. (For example, in this case the overall number of inches needed was approximately 91, which figures to 2-3/4 yards.)

5. Cut fabric widths to proper lengths. Join widths, as more than one width will be necessary to acquire the total width needed.

6. Divide the complete diameter of the tablecloth by 2 to find the radius. With right sides together, fold the tablecloth into quarters. Pin a tape measure at the folded corner. Using the tape measure as a compass, mark this radius with chalk or pins. Cut along marked lines.

7. To make hemming the tablecloth easier, serge-finish with a slight plus (+) setting to gather the hem edge slightly (this will make turning it under easier). Turn up the hem the width of the serge-stitching. Topstitch using an edge- or blind-stitch hemming foot for even topstitching.

Note: You may need to adjust the needle right or left.

8. To make self-cording, cut 2" strips of material on the bias. Connect enough strips to equal the total radius of the tablecloth bottom edge. Fold material stripes over cording and sew with a zipper foot.

9. Finish lower edge of tablecloth with a 1/2" hem to enclose self-cording.

Pillow Shams

Pillow Shams

Materials:

fabric
lining
batting
cording
scissors
pins
thread
sewing machine
tape measure

1. For a queen-size pillow sham, cut the following fabric pieces:

• One 20" x 20" piece for front sections

• Two 29" x 23-1/2" pieces

• Two pieces 5" wide x 42" long, for flange

• Two side pieces 5" x 35".

2. Cut bias strips for cording 3" wide to make a total of 110" finished.

3. For a queen-size pillow sham, cut the following lining pieces:

• Two pieces 29" x 21" for back lining

• One piece 22" x 32" for front lining.

4. To make batting strips for under flange, cut the following strips:

• Two pieces 5" x 42"

• Two pieces 5" x 30".

5. Attach the cord to the front section.

6. Attach flanges over cording, leaving the same amount of extra fabric on each end. Sew to within 1/2"of each corner of front.

7. Sew mitered corners on flanges.

8. Sew lining to back pieces at centers, right sides together.

9. Turn lining back to back with face, causing 1" of face to turn with lining and creating a hemmed edge.

10. Pin sham front to sham backs, overlapping in the center to fit.

11. Pin batting under flanges.

12. Sew through all layers with batting facing down on the machine.

13. Trim batting away along seams. Trim corners, turn and press seam flat.

14. Reach inside through back overlap and straighten batting. Insert front lining, making sure edges are inside flanges. Pin all layers together at corded seam, being careful not to shift fabrics.

15. Using a zipper foot, topstitch in corded seam.

16. Press, if needed.

Corded Floor Pillows

Corded Floor Pillows

Materials:

pillow forms
fabric
sewing machine
thread
scissors
cording

1. Cut two pieces of fabric 18" x 18".

2. Measure diameter all around the pillow to determine how much bias cording will be needed; then cut bias strips 2-1/2 " wide for cording.

3. Fold material around cording.

4. Attach cording in seamline on bottom piece of material (this keeps it from puckering) and sew with raw edges facing out. Clip corners for ease. Place top piece on top and stitch around, leaving fourth side open enough to stuff the pillow form in. Hand-stitch closed.

Princess Canopy

Princess Canopy

Materials:

3 pieces 1x 4 lumber (6" in length)
6 L-brackets
staple gun
swag pattern
weighted chain or heavy string
scissors
thread
ruffle attachment for machine
decorator fabric
lining

1. With a weighted chain, measure the wall area where the swag will hang. Two measurements are needed: the depth and the width of the swag, which are determined by how high you will mount the swag and the width of the bed you're mounting it over. In addition, measure the desired jabot length and the desired length you want the center horn to be.

2. Using a pattern, you can get the basic shape of the swags, jabots and horn, and then you can use your measurements to adjust the pattern.

3. When you have the right size, lay the fabric and place the swag pattern, which you've adjusted, on the bias of the fabric (using the bias will make the swag hang better).

4. You'll cut out two swags of the decorator fabric and two swags of linking. Next you'll cut out two jabot of the decorator fabric and two jabots of the lining: these will be cut on the straight of the grain and not on the bias. You will cut the horn next, cutting the front and the back out of the decorator fabric.

5. You're going to put a ruffle on the lead edge of the swags and jabots, so you need to get it ready: Our ruffle will be 4" when it's finished, so we'll cut the strips 9" wide. We'll sew these strips together and then fold them in half (i.e., 4-1/2": 4" for the ruffle and 1/2" for the seam allowance).

6. Before you can make the ruffle, serge the raw edges together.

7. Now you can start ruffling. For our ruffle, we made enough strips to give us triple fullness (we did this by measuring the outside edge of the swag and the lead edge of the jabot and then multiplying by 3 for each side of our canopy).

9. When the ruffle is finished, it's ready to attach to the swag. First lay the ruffle on the face of the decorator fabric, matching the edges, and sew in place.

10. Next lay the lining on top of the swag and ruffle with right sides together, making sure that everything is matched. Pin the pieces together and sew the lining to the swag (you will also sew the top of the swag, but not the sides). Turn the swag right side out and press.

11. Follow the same procedure with the jabot, sewing the ruffle to the lead edge and then adding the lining. The jabot is sewn on three sides and the tip is left open so you can turn it right side out and press.

12. The horn is sewn together, but you're not adding a ruffle. You also need to leave the top open so you can turn it right side out and press.

13. Hand-gather the horn and mount it to the top of the board you've already covered with the decorator fabric (our board is 1x4 and cut in 6" lengths). Next, hand-gather the swags and staple them on top of the horn, one on each side of the board. The other end of the swag will be hand-gathered and mounted to the other covered boards. Finally you will hand-gather the jabot and mount them on the same board.

14. Screw the board, with swags and jabots attached, to the L-brackets you have mounted on the wall over the bed. (Make sure you have the brackets anchored to studs so they won't fall.) You can add finials-- or even a bow--to the mounting boards.

Fabric-Lined Basket

Fabric-Lined Basket

Materials:

fabric
scissors
elastic (1/8" wide)
basket
sewing machine or needle and thread
safety pin
drinking glass (for rounding corners)

1. Cut the fabric to twice the size of the basket.

2. Stretch the elastic around the top of the basket, pulling it snug so the fabric liner will tightly fit to the basket. Cut the elastic accordingly and set aside for later use.

3. Round the corners of the fabric: place the drinking glass at the corner of the fabric and cut around the curve of the glass.

4. Fold the fabric under 1/4" on the wrong side and stitch. This creates the seam allowance.

5. Fold the fabric over 3/4" on the wrong side, leaving room for the band of elastic.

6. Sew along the edge of the fabric, make sure to leave a 1/2" space on one end to feed the elastic through.

7. Use a safety pin to thread the elastic through the hole in the fabric.

8. Stitch the ends of the elastic together; then stitch the ends of the fabric together.

9. Place the liner in the basket.

Dust Ruffle

Gathered Dust Ruffle

Materials:

fabric
lining
scissors
sewing machine or needle and thread
measuring tape
heavy thread

1. Decide what the drop is (from the top of the box spring to the floor). Cut strips 6" more than desired length (t will give enough fabric for the top edge of the box spring).

2. Cut the fabric triple the fullness of the length of each side of the box springs; cut a lining to match.

3. Place the faces of the fabric together and sew at the bottom edge. Turn under and press.

4. Sew the pieces together and gather them with a heavy thread, using a basting stitch. Gather to desired thickness.

5. Serge across the top and pin to the side of the bed.

Curtains With Ties

Curtains With Ties

Materials:

fabric
thread
lining fabric
sewing machine
scissors
tape measure

Note: This curtain will be placed on a rod.

1. First measure the window. Because our window size was 48" across and 36" down, we could use one width of fabric. Starting with the one width of fabric, we cut it to size (36" plus 6" for the pocket rod, 4" for the bottom hem and another 18 to 24" to make the folds).

2. Cut the lining the same as the above.

3. Lay the fabric face down, then place the lining on top. Press and fold in the sides to the desired width of window. Fold again to make 1-1/2" side hem, cut excess lining away and sew.

4. Fold in 2" for the bottom hem and sew. Fold the top header for the pocket rod to make a 3" double hem. Press and sew.

5. For the valance, measure down 12" and make a 2" double fake fold.

6. Make ties by cutting 4"-wide strips (the length should be the finished length plus 25" to allow for the bows).

7. Sew the finished ties in from the sides 8", attaching one part to the inside of the flap valance and the other to the back of the valance. If you would like, you can sew rings in the same sections and place string to hold in place.

8. Now the fold can be made, Make as many as you like to achieve the desired length and tie the bows.

Butterfly Curtains

Butterfly Curtains

Materials:

measuring tape
scissors
fabric
lining
sewing machine or needle and thread
curtain rod

1. Measure and cut the material to the length of the window. Add 25" extra for pleats, plus another 6" for the rod pocket. Cut the lining to the same measurements.

2. Lay the right sides of the fabric and the lining down on a flat surface. Fold each in the desired width of the finished curtain. The side hems should be 1-1/2" wide. Cut away any excess lining fabric and sew down the sides.

3. Fold up the bottom of the fabric to form a 2" hem.

4. Fold the top edge of the fabric down 6"; fold in half and seam to form a rod pocket.

5. Measure down from the header top approximately 12" to form a fold that is approximately 2" deep across the curtain (to look like a fake valance). Sew the top edge of the fold across.

6. Cut strips of fabric 3-1/2" wide. Fold the strips in half to form ties. Turn and attach to the curtain. Attach the straps approximately 10" to 12" in from the side edge of each curtain under the back and front flap.

7. Fold the bottom hem in 2-1/2" and fold until the curtain is the desired length. Tie the strips in a bow to create and hold the pleats.

Toy Box

Toy Box

Materials:

fabric
tape measure
framing square
staple gun
hammer
2" nails
wood glue
fabric glue
pencil

1. Using a tape measure, framing square and pencil, mark the boards for cutting. With all the parts cut, set up and sand them before assembly.

2. Using the framing square, lay out the inside of the bottom, front and back pieces where the sides and dividers will join them. The sides should be recessed 1/4" in from the ends and the dividers spaced.

3. Lay the bottom on the workbench atop a 1/2" spacer; then stand the front, back and side on the edge around the bottom, using clamps to hold them in place.

4. Nail five 2" finish nails through the outside of the side piece and into the edge of the bottom piece. Turn the unit around and repeat the procedure on the other side.

Tip: Hammer very carefully so that the nails go into the center of the 3/4" edge of the plywood.

5. Turn the unit over so the bottom piece is in a vertical position, sitting on edge. Squeeze a bead of glue on the edge of the side and bottom pieces. Position the front piece over the glued edges, aligning carefully so all edges are flush. Hammer 2" finish nails through the front piece and into the glued edges approximately every 2-1/2".

6. Once the box has been assembled, apply a thin batting with a staple gun. (With batting, use a staple gun; with foam, use fabric adhesive)

7. Next, using a staple gun, cover the toy chest with fabric.

Note: Fabrics with higher thread counts and a tighter weave are more durable than those with looser weaves. Fabrics made of natural fibers will absorb stains more quickly than manmade materials, but they will clean better. And highly textured fabrics, such as tweeds, can fray easily when they get excessive use.

RESOURCES :

Waverly fabric (tablecloth)
Product #605223 (Classic Ticking Blue)
Product #662393 (Claire's Check Meadow)
Website: www.waverly.com

Waverly fabric (pillow shams)
Product #605223 (Classic Ticking Blue)
Product #662393 (Claire's Check Meadow)
Product #668068 (Timeless Ticking Pear)
Product #66157 (Dot Dotz Petal)
Product #666375 (Chatterbox Petal)
Website: www.waverly.com

Marimekko fabric (pillow shams)
Product # 52463-513 Pikku Bo Boo Blue
Textile Arts
Website: http://store.txtlart.com

Fabric.com fabric (pillow shams)
Product # DPSR-002 Silk Dupioni-Ballet Pink
Website: www.fabric.com

Marimekko fabric (floor pillow)
Product # 19130-5 Kivet Yellow
Textile Arts
Website: http://store.txtlart.com

Waverly fabric (canopy)
Product #666157 (Dot Dotz Petal)
Website: www.waverly.com

Fabric.com fabric (canopy)
Product # DPSR-002 Silk Dupioni-Ballet Pink
Website: www.fabric.com

Waverly fabric (basket and dust ruffle)
Product #669025 (Rodeo Drive Ballet Pink)
Product #666375 (Chatterbox Petal)
Website: www.waverly.com

Waverly fabric (curtains with ties)
Product #666157 (Dot Dotz Petal)
Product #669025 (Rodeo Drive Pink)
Product #666375 (Chatterbox Petal)
Website: www.waverly.com

Waverly fabric (butterfly curtains)
Product #605223 (Classic Ticking Blue)
Product #370577 (Retro Denim)
Website: www.waverly.com

Waverly fabric (toy box)
Product #668089 (Timeless Ticking Canary)
Website: www.waverly.com