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When it comes to cleaning clothes, we have the advantage of reading the label. When it comes to cleaning our jewelry, though, we're on our own. So today we're off to the jewelers to find out how often to clean jewelry and to see what cleaning jobs are better left to the professionals.
From diamond wedding bands to gold bracelets, emeralds to opals, and all the spectacular stones in between, your fine jewelry won't look nearly so fine if you don't keep up its sparkle and shine (figure A). Whether you wear your best jewelry every day or only on special occasions, oils from your hands, lotions, dust and dirt in the air can cause jewelry to lose its luster.Mary Effler Andrus is a third-generation gemologist and jewelry-store owner. Not only does she sell fine jewelry, she also helps her customers care for and protect their most precious and priceless possessions. - Some of the best advice Andrus has to offer involves taking it off -- your jewelry, that is. From mixing up a meatloaf to gardening and dishwashing, day-to-day activities can scratch, dull or loosen a setting, so it's best to remove your jewelry before beginning most tasks (figure B). Even your grooming habits can jeopardize your precious stones and metals: hand lotions are by far the biggest culprits, so always put lotions, hairspray and perfume on before donning any jewelry.
Andrus also suggests a professional cleaning at least once a year for fine jewelry. Before cleaning jewelry, a professional polisher should check the piece under a microscope to make sure the stones are tight in their setting.From there, the jewelry goes to the buffing wheel, which is made up of layers of soft cotton cloth. The wheel will remove any tarnish or light scratches on the metal. A stick of red rouge is used on the pieces as a polishing compound to bring out the shine.Next, the piece goes into the ultrasonic cleaner for a quick bath. The slight agitation from the sound waves and the cleaning solution helps remove the polishing compound and dirt.A light scrub follows, using a soft bristle brush, warm water and a mild soap. This will clean off anything the ultrasound may have missed. Don't be afraid to try this part of the process at home. Just remember to use a mild, unscented, nondeodorant soap and a soft-bristle toothbrush.The jewelry then gets a shot of 50-pound pressurized steam to dry it and blow off any remaining debris.One final check is made of the jewelry to make sure stones are still secure in their setting (figure C).Pearls have their own cleaning needs (figure D). Soaking them in soapy water can weaken the string, and brushing them is too harsh for these little oyster gems. Instead, dip a soft cloth in a delicate jewelry cleaner and rub over the pearls to remove anything that might have come in contact with them while they were being worn.If you have any doubts about an over-the-counter jewelry cleaner, ask your jeweler before purchasing.
To keep jewelry sparkling at home, remember the following tips:- Use a soft cloth to wipe away dirt after each wearing.
- Apply lotion, perfume and hairspray before putting on jewelry.
- Never soak pearls. Clean them after every wearing with a soft, damp cloth.
- Use a soft-bristle toothbrush and a mild, unscented, nondeodorant soap to gently clean fine jewelry.
- Clean diamonds with vodka. Spray or pour over the stones and pat dry for a brilliant shine.
- If you have costume jewelry that doesn't have glue holding the setting in place, you can clean the pieces easily by dropping them in a bowl of warm water and two denture-cleaning tablets. Let them soak for five minutes or so, then dry carefully. For more intricate pieces, dry them with a blow dryer.
Tip: Remove colored chalk marks from fabric by placing the fabric on a paper towel and blotting with rubbing alcohol. Rub with laundry soap and launder as usual.
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