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  • Parachute Room Divider
  • From "From Junky to Funky"
    episode DFJF-107


    To finish up the re-designed room, designer David Beaupre reveals his idea for creating a dramatic room divider using a parachute and a pulley system.

    advertisement


    PHOTO

    To cozy up the homeowner's large room, this parachute now hangs from the ceiling and can be lowered using a simple pulley system.
    Materials:

    Parachute
    1" x 4" pine
    Lace
    Staples
    Eyehooks
    Plastic eyelets
    Nylon cord
    Plastic rings
    Needle and thread
    Paint
    Table saw
    Sewing machine
    Drill
    Staple gun

    1. Purchase a parachute with a radius of at least the width of the room.

    2. Cut the parachute in half down the middle of the seams.

    3. Cut a piece of 1" x 4" pine to the width of the room. Prime and paint the same color as the ceiling.

    4. Machine sew trim or lace onto the parachute edge.

    5. Starting at the outer edge of the parachute, staple the cut edge of the parachute on what will be the top of the 1" x 4" board all the way to the center (top) of the parachute. Let the other half hang.

    6. In front of each seam "spine" screw in a 1/4" eyehook.

    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    7. On either end of your 1/4" mounting board and 1-2 in the middle, screw in 3/4" eyehooks (figure A). These will help route the longer strings for the pull cord mechanism.

    8. Running down each seam, hand sew 1/4" white plastic eyelets each place it intersects another seam and in between those midpoints. On the outer, wider edges of the parachute, it may be necessary for 2-3 midpoint eyehooks. These rings allow string to run through freely and to be able to draw up the parachute.

    Tip: The more eyehooks that are sewn on, the tighter the bunching will be when it's completely pulled up.

    9. Mount the 1" x 4" board into the ceiling with wood screws into the joists or by using anchors.

    10. On the side with the most silk hanging, tie nylon string to the last plastic ring on the outer edge. Follow up the spines by threading the nylon cord all the way up to the 1/4" eyehooks screwed into the mounting board and over to one side to a cleat mounted to the wall (figure B). Repeat utilizing both the 1/4" and 3/4" rings to route the cord the cleanest way possible.

    Tip: The more cords run against each other, the harder it will be to pull up with ease.

    11. After all of the string has been run through the rings, it should consecutively pull itself up. There may be a need to redirect the route of some rings for it to bunch smoothly once it's all pulled up. Experiment by pulling different strings at different times to get varied effects.

    12. Finish off the ends of the strings so they will not unravel by a simple square knot, and then add a bead for a more polished look.

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: