| Electrified Lantern |
From "DIY Crafts"
episode DIC-214 |
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Materials: Two 3" vent/duct collars (figure A)
One 4" vent/duct collar
One 4" vent/duct cap
File
One toggle-switch with 2 wire leads
One 1/4" bushing for cord outlet
Decorative perforated metal, cut into 4" round
Vapor-tight cast-aluminum light guard (Stonco Manufacturing #VK1GC -- kit includes guard, screw-on mounting plate, prewired porcelain socket and glass globe)
9' lamp cord with plug (clear cord looks silvery)
3 small plastic wire nuts (wire connectors)
2-part epoxy paste
Spray frost finish
Drill with 3/8" high-speed steel bit
Aviator tin snips
Electrician's wire stripper
40-watt light bulb (60W max) Metal Cutting and Drilling - Cut inside lip off the 3" collar. (This will create a 4" diameter opening.) Drill a 3/8" hole on one side (to accept the switch button).
- Cut the inside lip off of the 4" collar (figure B). (This will create a 5" diameter opening.) Work Smart: The edges of the vent/duct collar will be sharp after you cut them. Be sure to file those rough edges down before continuing with the project.
- Drill a 3/8" hole into the lower half of the collar for the cord outlet. Snap in outlet bushing.
- Drill a hole in bottom of 4" duct cap and cut out a hole with a 3" diameter (leaving 1/2" lip around the edge).
- Cut a 4" round piece of decorative perforated metal.
Gluing with Epoxy - Epoxy the base of the vapor-tight fixture to the remaining (uncut) 3" collar.
- Epoxy this collar to the top of the larger collar (which was cut to 5"). Make sure that the top and bottom holes are aligned opposite each other. This is the lamp base.
- Epoxy the 4" piece of perforated metal into the duct cap.
- Slip the cut 3" duct collar over the cap with the curved side facing toward the perforated metal. This will be the lantern top (figure C).
- Allow the epoxy to dry per package/tube instructions.
Assembly - Spray frost finish onto the glass globe.
- Fit the toggle-switch to the switch opening (top hole) on the base (figure D).
- Pull cord through cord outlet hole and wire switch into socket. (There are two leads in the socket, two leads in the switch and two leads in the cord, which need to be wired together with the wire nuts.)
- Screw in the light bulb.
- Screw in the glass globe.
- Slide the top (duct cap, perforated metal assembly) over the top of the guard (figure E).
- Place guard over globe and twist the lock.
- Plug in and turn on the switch.
Tip: Be sure that all cut edges are free of burrs. A rotary tool with a grinding/sanding bit is recommended. A metal file, emery cloth or steel wool will also do the job. Products: Everything should be available at an electrical-supply or hardware store. The light guard is a standard size and is also available from other manufacturers. Ask the hardware store to show you their lighting catalog. For more information about this and other lamps, contact Michael Messenheimer, or visit his website (see guest information, below).
RESOURCES :
The Beaded Lampshade Book
Interstellar Publishing Company
La Mesa, CA 91943
Phone: 619-292-8191
Fax: 619-292-0373
Email: interstlr@aol.com
The Paper Shade Book: Simple Techniques for Making Beautiful Lampshades
Model: 1564967530
Author: Maryellen Driscoll
(April, 2001)
Rockport Publishers
Designs for Lamps II: Patterns for 22 Small to Medium Shades
Model: 0919985238
Author: Charles Knapp
Wardell Publications, Inc.
December, 1998
More Lampshade Patterns II: For Medium to Large Sized Shades
Model: 091998505X
Author: Judy Wardell
(December, 1986)
Wardell Publishing
Paper Illuminated: 15 Projects for Making Handcrafted Luminaria
Model: 1580173306
Author: Helen Hiebert
(September, 2001)
Storey Books / Storey Communications Inc.
Website: www.storey.com
GUESTS :
Michael Messenheimer
Email: the_artist@alchemylamps.com
Website: www.alchemylamps.com
Artist/Designer
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