| Easy-to-Sew Valance |
From "Ask DIY"
episode ADI-311 |
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Q: Do you have an easy window valance I could make that uses two complementary fabrics? A: (from Nancy Golden, Ask DIY Interior Design expert) Here's a project you're going to love: it's an easy-to-sew valance (figure A) that has the look of an expensive, custom-made window treatment but actually takes just a little time and creativity to construct. Materials (figure B): 1"x4" cut to width of window frame (or slightly wider, if desired)
Solid-color, medium-weight fabric for back layer
Soft-print upholstery fabric for front layer
Upholstery cord (cord with selvage edge) in coordinating color, enough to trim lower edge of valance
Scissors
Staple gun
Hammer
Sewing machine with zipper foot
Silk flower(s) or other small decorative items
Two four-inch L-brackets and nails
- To get started, measure the width of your window frame. In most cases, you'll use this measurement for the base of your valance. If you decide the style of your window or window frame is better suited to a slightly wider valance, simply add the extra width to your initial measurement.
- Purchase a 1"x4" at your local home improvement center. Ask someone on staff in the lumber department to cut the board to the pre-determined width.
- Select your fabrics. For the back layer, you'll need enough yardage to cover the top and sides of the 1"x4" and hang down about halfway behind the front layer. Medium-weight, solid-color fabrics generally work best here; choose a color that will complement -- but not compete with -- the print you'll use for the front layer.
Since this window treatment features a soft, flowing style, choose a delicate print or small pattern for the draped front of the valance; geometric designs or large prints aren't compatible with this look. Buy enough yardage to wrap around the base, with extra slack in front that can be pulled up and secured in the center for a draped, "double-scallop" effect. Important Tip: To keep the valance in proportion to the window, make sure its top-to-bottom measurement equals exactly one quarter of the window's height.
- Place the long edge of the solid-color fabric along one of the board's long edges; this will be the back. (The board will sit against the wall in the same manner as a small shelf.) Allow the fabric to drape over the top of the board and hang down in the front, long enough to fill in behind the open areas you'll create with the front layer.
Secure the material using the staple gun, spacing staples two to three inches apart (figure C). Wrap the fabric around the ends of the board as well, securing at the front and back corners with more staples. Note: Since the back edge of the 1"x4" will be placed against the wall, the exposed staples don't require any cover-up. Be sure, however, that the staples lay flat against the board to ensure a tight fit against the wall. If the staple gun leaves the staples slightly extended, use a hammer to drive them into the wood until they're completely flat.
- Now you're ready to add the front layer (figure D). Since this fabric will be folded in half top-to-bottom (figure E), double the pre-determined height of the valance (the measurement derived by calculating one quarter of the window's height).
The fabric's width should allow it to span the base from one back corner to the other, accommodating the draped front. Once you've obtained the correct dimensions, carefully cut the fabric to size.
- Next, cut a length of upholstery cord (figure F) to run along the bottom edge of the valance. Fold the long edges of the fabric together, with right sides facing inward. Place the cord between the two layers of fabric so the edge of the cord's selvage is even with the edges of the fabric as shown in figure G. (The cord should be completely hidden inside the fabric.)
Holding the fabric in place, sew a single seam to attach the edges and secure the cord (figure H). Make sure the seam runs directly against the edge of the cord within. Important Tip: To ensure a tight fit between the stitching and the cord, use a zipper foot when sewing this seam.
- Once the seam is complete, turn your fabric right-side-out with the corded edge at the bottom. Tuck the unfinished ends inside the fabric cylinder you've created (figure I), then sew the ends closed on the outside with neatly-finished, quarter-inch seams (figure J).
- Secure the top corners of the front fabric layer to the back corners of the base with the staple gun. Add staples at the front corners to shape the sides of the valance (figure K).
- On the front edge of the base, find its exact center. Pull the loose fabric up to a point at that position and secure with a single staple to create the double-draped front (figure L).
- Pin a flower or other decorative item over the front staple for a lovely finishing touch (and camouflage) as shown in figure M. Hide the back corner staples with smaller coordinating accents, if desired.
- Mount an L-bracket (figure N) at the top of the window frame on each side, then lay the base of the valance across the tops of the brackets, making sure the back edge rests against the wall. (The brackets should be completely hidden by the fabric.) If you've designed your valance to be slightly wider than the window, check to make sure it's centered on the brackets; if not, simply slide it to the right or left as needed.
RESOURCES :
A Portfolio of Window & Window Treatment Ideas
Model: 0865739560
Creative Publishing International, 1995
Do-It-Yourself Fabric Decor: Pillows, Window Treatments, and Slipcovers for Your Home
Model: 0865733457
Author: Editors of Creative Publishing International
(August, 2000)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Creative Publishing International, Inc.
Website: www.creativepub.com
Window Dressing
Model: 0887509614
Author: Don Bailey
(March, 1994)
Oberon Press
Complete Book of Window Treatments & Curtains
Model: 0806906138
Author: Carol Parks
Lark Books, March 1995
Lark Books / Altamont Press
Website: www.larkbooks.com
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