| Tips on Radical Vegetables from Chef Tracy Griffith |
From "DIY Cooking" episode COK-121F |
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Chef Tracy Griffith shares some radical vegetable ideas -- because she says it's time to venture beyond carrots and celery.
- Taro root (figure A), a tuber grown primarily in Hawaii, is used in preparing poi, a famous dish served at luaus. When it's raw it's a little bitter, but when it's cooked, it tastes like water chestnut. The leaves can be eaten too; called callaloo in the Caribbean, they can be prepared like mustard or turnip greens.
- The most common variety of artichoke is the globe artichoke (figure B), grown almost exclusively in California.
- Another root vegetable is the daikon [DI-kon] (figure C). It's name come from the Japanese words dai, meaning large, and con, or root. Raw daikon is crisp, juicy and slightly bitter -- a bit like a turnip. Excellent in salad and stir-fry recipes, it's also a favorite ingredient in Japanese cooking.
- The crunchy, sweet and nutty-tasting jicama [HEE-kah-mah] (figure D) is delicious raw and is very popular in Mexican dishes. Like taro root, when it's cooked the taste is similar to water chestnuts.
- Next on the list is the ubiquitous squash. Acorn squash (figure E), when it's baked or simmered with butter and cinnamon, is reminiscent of Thanksgiving. The spaghetti squash (figure F) is a winter squash whose flesh turns into strands resembling spaghetti -- which can actually be eaten with butter and cheese.
- Okra (figure G) is a pod vegetable that can be purchased fresh, canned or frozen. Cooked okra releases a gooey substance that is used to thicken liquids and stews. This vegetable is probably best known for its contribution to the classic gumbo.
- Collard greens (figure H) are an heirloom dish. Chef Tracy suggests, when preparing them, you start with leaves that are a nice green --not yellow -- color. First it's essential to clean the greens: break off the stems and wash the greens thoroughly to remove all the grit (and there will be grit). Strain the greens in a strainer and then break them off into large pieces. A "secret" ingredient for good collard greens is a piece of pork fatback. Place it in a large saucepan with olive oil and let it start cooking. Stir in minced onions and cook until they're translucent. Add collard greens and stir until coated with liquid. Add water, but it isn't necessary to cover or drown them. Add salt to taste. Cover the pot and simmer for 1 to 1-1/2 hours. (If you're in a hurry, use a pressure cooker and cook for about 20 minutes.) If you don't want to use fatback, you can saute the onions in olive oil and add chicken broth for the liquid. Don't be afraid to try collard greens -- they're tasty and nutritious.
- Peeling tips from Chef Tracy:
- To peel jicama, use the edge of a regular spoon and the skin will peel right off (figure I). Jicama has a papery-thin skin, and using a spoon will prevent you from tearing it. When the jicama is peeled, place it in a little lemon juice and water to maintain the color, texture and taste. It will keep in the refrigerator for a couple of days until you're ready to use it. (You can apply the same technique to gingerroot.)
- Taro root has a tough, barklike covering; to remove it, take a sharp knife and peel downward (figure J).
- Daikon has a thin skin like the jicama, but you can use a potato peeler to remove it. Make sure to remove all the skin because it's very bitter. Sweet potatoes can also be peeled with a potato peeler.
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- Beets can badly stain your hands. To remove the stain, just rub with lemon juice.
- Mix a little lemon juice, chopped mint, vinegar and oil and pour over chilled cooked beets (figure K) for a great dish.
- One of Chef Tracy's favorite ways to prepare a radical vegetable salad it to julienne cold raw carrot, daikon and boiled beets with a mandolin. Place a couple of lettuce leaves (any variety) on a plate. Make a haystack in the middle with the daikon and carrot strips and top with the beet strips. For a garnish, add fresh chives on top, and dress with a citrus vinaigrette of olive oil, vinegar, lemon juice and orange juice (figure L) for a wonderful salad that doesn't need any salt and pepper.
- Don't let artichokes intimidate you. Start with a whole raw artichoke; then slice off the bottom stem part and cut off the top. With kitchen shears, cut off the thorn on the tip of each leaf. Squirt lemon juice on it to keep its color, and place the artichoke in your steamer upside down. Cover and steam for 45 minutes. To eat the artichoke, peel back the leaves and pull them off. Eat the meat at the end of the leaf (figure M) by dipping it in your favorite sauce and then pulling it off with your teeth. Once all the leaves are removed, you get down to the choke. Remove the top part, use a knife to remove the furry part and voila! The heart of the artichoke.
Special thanks to Pier 1 Imports (see Resources, below). Website resources for Radical Vegetables: Candied Yams from Food TV.com Red Yam Flan from Food TV.com Pickled Beet Salad from Food TV.com Rice with Corn, Okra, and Chipotle from Food TV.com Tomato and Okra Salad from Food TV.com Poi from Food TV.com We at DIY believe all of the recipes from DIY Cooking are accurate and reliable, but since we have not tested them personally, we can claim no responsibility if the desired results are not achieved.
RESOURCES :
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Author: Editors of Cooks Illustrated
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Boston Common Press
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Passion for Vegetables: Simple and Inspired Vegetarian Recipes from Around the Glove
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Author: Paul Gayler
The Lyon's Press
New York, NY 10011
Phone: 212-620-9580
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Broadway Books/Random House, Inc.
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Barron's best-selling A-to-Z guide is back and better than ever with 900 new listings and the most up-to-date information on culinary terms.
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