| Interview: Seared Single-Sided Salmon |
From "Ask DIY"
episode ADI-106 |
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Salmon is a cook's delight, but only if you buy it fresh, cook it quickly and strictly follow safe handling procedures. Chef Paul Sturkey demonstrates a salmon treatment suitable for entertaining. Here's how to prepare his Seared Single-Sided Salmon: Working smarter: For optimum flavor (and to make sure the fish doesn't go bad), always keep fish cold, at least 32-37 degrees Fahrenheit, and cook it within a day of purchase. Safety alert: To minimize the chance of illness from improperly prepared or handled fish, follow these guidelines:
- Always thaw frozen fish and seafood in the refrigerator.
- Throw out fish with a strong fishy or ammonia smell.
- Wash your hands before and after handling fish.
- Keep cutting boards and utensils used for preparing fish clean, before and after handling.
- Use a different set of clean utensils and dishes for raw and cooked fish dishes.
Materials:
Saute pan
Blender
Measuring cups
Wooden spoons
Spatula
Ingredients:
One 6- to 7-oz. salmon fillet per portion
Kosher salt
Black pepper
Olive oil
1 Tbs. minced shallots
1 Tbs. minced garlic
1 Tbs. ground fresh horseradish
1 Tbs. minced fresh herbs such as rosemary and thyme
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup white wine
2-1/2 cups packed, washed fresh spinach leaves Preparation:
- Pat the fillets dry and season them with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper (figure A).
- Heat enough olive oil to cover the bottom of the saute pan to medium high, just shy of the smoking point. Place the salmon fillets in the pan, pink side down, making sure they have a couple of inches between fillets (start two pans if necessary) (figure B). Cover the pan and cook on medium until the fish is cooked through but not dry -- usually around seven minutes.
- Meanwhile, start the sauce. Saute minced shallot in a tablespoon or so of olive oil on medium heat. Add the garlic, horseradish and fresh herbs (figure C), stir-frying just for a few seconds.
- Pour the cream (figure D) and white wine into the pan. Let the mixture come just to the boiling point, stirring frequently.
- Place fresh spinach in a blender. Take off the glass lid in its center (creating a donut shape) and then put the top on the blender. Pulsing the blender on and off, pour the cream mixture through the lid into the spinach (figure E), until the sauce is the consistency you want -- try for a Hollandaise-like texture. Add a pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper and pulse once more.
- Pull the salmon fillets from the pan and place them skin-side down over fresh vegetables (figure F). To present, drizzle the sauce over the fish and vegetables.
Questions for Paul: Q: How can I tell if I'm buying fresh fish?
A: Use all your senses. For a whole fish, look to see that the eyes are clear. If the eyes are cloudy or gray, it's aging. The gills should also be intact. If they're gray or gone, don't buy. The fish should be firm, not slimy. Push your finger into the flesh. If the print bounces back, it's fresh. If the indentation stays put, it's a no go. It's always good to get to know your local fishmonger, so you can find out when he gets fresh fish shipped and buy it the day it arrives.
Q: Can I use this sauce with other fish?
A: It works very well with halibut or scallops. For more information on Paul Sturkey and his Cincinnati restaurant, click here. Web site resources for salmon: Salmon Recipes The Salmon Page by Riverdale School Salmon Recipes From Yumyum.com
Jim Spiers' Salmon Recipes Joyce Goldstein's Pickled Salmon More Salmon Recipes Books: James McNair's Salmon Cookbook
by James McNair
Chronicle Books (1987)
85 Second St., 6th Fl.
San Francisco, CA 94105
Phone: 415-537-3730
Fax: 415-537-4440
E-mail: frontdesk@chronbooks.com
Web site: www.chronbooks.com Simply Shrimp, Salmon & Fish Steaks
by Leslie Grover Pendleton
HarperCollins Publishing (2000)
10 E. 53 St.
New York, NY 10022
Phone: 212-207-7000
Web site: harpercollins.com
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