DIY Network

Color Stains Color Stains From "Ask DIY" episode ADI-406

Figure A

Q: I've seen stains in the home center. I've never worked with water-based stains. Do you have any tips?

A: (From Bruce Johnson, Ask DIY Woodworking expert) I can think of several advantages to using water-based color stains. For one thing, they offer a range and intensity of colors that oil-based stains can't begin to offer (figure A). For another, they can be used without the need for ventilation, since they produce no dangerous fumes, and cleanup is simple -- just soap and water.

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	Figure B
	The piece of pine on the left was stained without being conditioned; note the blotchiness around the knot. The one on the right was conditioned first -- no blotches!

To use either type of stain, the first thing you have to do is to stir the stain thoroughly. In both, the pigment settles in the bottom of the can, so only a thorough stirring will distribute all the pigment throughout the stain.

Always test a stain first on a scrap piece of wood -- you can never be sure of the final color until you see it applied to the type of surface you'll be staining (figure B). You can apply stain with either a brush or a rag, but a rag gives more control; it enables you to rub the stain into the wood instead of laying it on, as you would with a brush.

The correct method of application is first to rub the stain into the wood using a circular motion, then to wipe it with the grain to get rid of any marks. Keep in mind that a water-based stain will evaporate more quickly than will an oil-based one.

If you're working with pine, keep in mind that this type of wood has a tendency to turn blotchy when treated with either type of stain, especially around knots. Therefore it's a good idea to use a wood conditioner first. The conditioner takes only about 15 minutes to dry and will cause the wood to accept the stain more evenly. Simply apply conditioner, let dry, then stain; let the stain dry for a couple of hours, and you're ready to go!

Stains add color but don't protect wood, so some type of protectant must be added. Don't use polyurethane, though: it always adds a slight yellow tint. Instead, use a water-based finish, which can be applied with either a brush or an aerosol spray.

Q: I want to paint veneer furniture. What do I need to do to make sure the paint sticks?

A: Actually, paint sticks better to primer than it does to bare wood, so be sure to apply a coat of primer to the veneer. Let it dry completely before painting it.

Q: I discovered rosewood and mahogany in my 1880s Victorian house. What is the most authentic finish that would have been used at the turn of the century?

A: Those are both high-quality furniture woods, so to find them in the woodwork of a house signifies a high-quality house. Originally the finish of choice was shellac, which has been largely replaced today by polyurethanes. But shellac is still available. Just brush it on and be sure to rub it out with a coat of paste wax after applying.

Q: What refinishing product will remove varnish and not dull the color underneath?

A: Sadly, not any -- the chemicals in them will always affect both the stain and the finish, dulling the color. But you can always revive the finish with additional stain and whatever finish you're putting on it.

RESOURCES :
Wood stains, gel stains, wood markers
Minwax Company (full name: The Thompson Minwax Company)
Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458-1934
Phone: 201-818-7500
Fax: 201-818-7605
Website: www.minwax.com