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  • Security Light Installation
  • From "Ask DIY"
    episode ADI-310
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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure J

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    Figure K

    Q: I'd like to upgrade the security lights on my house. Can you show me how to do it?

    A: (Ask DIY Home-Improvement expert Brad Staggs) This is definitely a worthwhile project. Upgrading security lights allows you to replace fixtures that have to be turned on and off manually with models that illuminate in response to motion (figure A).

    Materials:

    Motion-sensing light fixture and bulbs
    Drill
    Small scrap of fabric or paper towel
    Wire cutters/stripper
    Safety glasses

    1. Before getting started, turn off the power to the circuit at the main electrical box (figure B). Once you've turned off the power at the breaker box, attempt to turn on the light to be certain it's no longer receiving any electricity.

    2. Next, use your drill to remove the mounting screw (or screws) holding the fixture in place (figure C) and unscrew the wire nuts on the ends of the exposed wires.

    3. Now detach the wires of the old fixture (usually one white and one black) from the other wires; set the fixture aside. The two main wires extending from inside the wall may already be attached to other wires as shown in figure D. If so, simply leave these wires connected -- exterior lights are often wired together in a series when they're connected to the electrical panel. The wires of the new fixture (figure E) will be attached to these interior wires in the same fashion as those of the old model.

    4. Most newer security light fixtures are sold with a neoprene gasket (figure F) that fits behind the fixture and serves as a seal to prevent water from seeping into the back area. If your exterior surface is flat, go ahead and position the gasket in place as you install the light.

    5. Here the uneven surface of the exterior siding makes the gasket unnecessary. Since this fixture is designed for wet locations and has drainage openings along the bottom of the base, the absence of the gasket won't be a problem.

      Note : Although most exterior light fixtures are waterproof, check the package before purchasing to make sure the model you've selected is suitable for wet areas.

    6. After stripping the ends of the new fixture wires, firmly twist them onto the wires in the wall (remember, black goes with black, white goes with white). Then replace the wire nuts (figure G), making sure they're securely screwed in place.

    7. Position the fixture so the hole for the mounting screw is aligned with the existing screw hole in the wall; be patient -- this can be a bit tricky. As you line up the holes, adjust the wiring so that it fits into the open area in the base without blocking the path of the screw.

      Once the holes are aligned, drill the new mounting screw in place (figure H), being careful not to over-torque as this can damage the surface of the wall.

    8. Snap off the small cover panel on the base to expose the switches for the light settings (figure I) and adjust as desired. Most fixtures will have high, medium and low sensitivity settings (for maximum security, select high sensitivity).

      Time settings, which determine how long the light stays on once it's activated, will generally range from a few seconds to several minutes.

    9. Finally, screw the bulbs in place (figure J) and restore power to the fixture at the breaker panel. Use a small scrap of fabric or piece of paper towel to cover the light sensor on the fixture (most motion-sensing lights will only illuminate at night). Then wave your other hand in front of the bulbs to test the motion-detecting feature. The light should click on (figure K) and remain lit for the length of time you set with the switch.

    Next Weekend Project: Install a GFCI Outlet

    Weekend Projects Index

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