DIY Network

Avoiding Photo Red-Eye: Bounce-Flash From "The Whole Picture" episode DTWP-109

Direct flash can cause even the most flattering photos to turn out wickedly bad. To keep your subjects from falling prey to the evil red-eye, consider using external and bounce flash.

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This lesson in digital photography deals with eliminating the red-eye effect that frequently appears in photographs. Professional photographer Erin Manning explains the advantages of using an external adjustable flash to illuminate the room rather than simply flashing on the subject with a direct flash. "Bouncing" the light off of surfaces like the walls and ceiling typically yields far better results than direct flash, and helps prevent the problem of red-eye.

Materials used in this episode:

Digital camera with pre-flash mode
Camera owner's manual
External slave flash, adjustable for bounce-flash
Computer with image-editing software

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Using bounce flash can yield a much more flattering light and helps reduce the possibility of red-eye.

Using Bounce Flash

External slave flashes are a great photographer's tool because they help get the source of the flash away from the camera lens. One big advantage of this technique is that it helps eliminate the problem of red-eye. Slave flashes can be used either on a bracket that attaches to the camera, or off the bracket--placed somewhere nearby in the room. The adjustability of the flash allows you to angle it in a variety of ways, taking advantage of reflected--or "bounced"--light rather than direct flash.

Figure A

Once you get an external slave flash connected to your camera, you can aim the head of the flash away from your subject toward a white wall or white ceiling (figure A). In that way the light "bounces" off the ceiling and down toward your subject. Bounced light softens and spreads as it travels, creating a more gentle and attractive light rather than the harsh light created from firing a flash directly onto your subject. It also is very effective at preventing the red-eye phenomenon.

The bounce flash is frequently ideal in situations where you take the slave unit off the bracket and place it somewhere even further away from the camera's lens.

Using a bounce flash typically works best with lower ceilings and smaller rooms where the light will not have as far to travel. If you're dealing with vaulted ceilings or really large rooms, chances are that this technique will not give you the best results. The bounce flash will "lose its bounce."

It's also important to note the color of the walls and ceilings in the room. If they are any color other than white, that's exactly the color that will reflect back onto your subjects. Green walls will cast a green hue (figure B), yellow walls will make everyone look yellow (figure C) and so on. Just remember this tip: if your room is white, you're subject won't see red!

Figure B

Figure C

	Figure D
	Figure E
	Try using an external slave flash to eliminate red-eye.

You can also use a small white card if you don't have a white ceiling or wall to work with. Simply wrap or attach the paper to the flash as shown (figure D) and use that white surface to bounce the light and reflect back onto your subject.

Since the external flash operates remotely, you can experiment with different locations to see how best to utilize the direction and distance of the flash (figure E).This technique may be a little too cumbersome for some situations, but it's an option.

Using a bounce flash is not always going to be the answer but it is another useful tip for preventing red-eye.