DIY Network

Modernized Kitchen: How to Install Hardwood Flooring Prior to installing new hardwood flooring, make sure there are no mars or dents in your sub-floor; then roll felt paper over the sub-floors to serve as vapor barrier and to reduce floor noise. From "Sweat Equity" episode DSEQ-112

All the old cabinets, countertops and floors have been removed. And with the dry walling complete, the Larneds are ready to install their new hardwood floor. Hardwood is a great investment because it’s very durable and easy to clean. Daryl chose a pre-finished wood, it’s a little more expensive but the extra cost is worth the saved time and convenience.

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H

Materials:

15 lb. roofing felt
flooring material
scissors
finish nailer
flooring stapler
tape measure
rubber mallet
miter saw

Hardwood Flooring Installation Tips:

• Running the hardwood boards perpendicular to floor joists prevents them from sagging in the future.

• Leave a 3/8-inch gap between the walls and the flooring to aid in installation. Cover this gap later with trim.

• Leave the hardwood flooring material in your house for 10 to 14 days to acclimate to your room’s environment. This will limit the amount of natural expanding and contracting your flooring will undergo in its lifetime.

Safety Alerts:

• Always wear safety glasses when working with power tools.

• If you suspect your old flooring may contain asbestos, don’t remove or disturb the flooring until it is tested. Consider installing your new floors on top of the old flooring.

How to Install Hardwood Floors:

• Amy and Daryl first make sure there are no mars or dents in Daryl’s sub-floor. Then they roll the felt paper over the sub-floors, making sure they slightly overlap the edges (figure A). Felt paper acts as vapor barrier and reduces floor noise.

• Daryl cuts the felt paper around vents and trims the edges along the wall (figure B).

• Starting in the corner, Daryl uses a finish nailer to secure the first board to the floor (figure C). Use a finish nailer on the first few boards closest to the wall as this space will be too tight for a floor stapler.

• Daryl loosely lays out a few boards next to each other, measuring as he goes where the next board needs to be cut and staggering his board seams about 6 to 8 inches apart and using different size pieces (figure D). This gives the flooring added strength and beauty.

• Amy cuts the marked boards with a miter saw (figure E).

• Daryl places the new board on floor next to secured board and uses a rubber mallet (figure F) to lock in the tongue-and groove construction (figure G).

• Daryl uses a flooring stapler every 6-inches or so to secure boards (figure H) to the sub-floor and continues this way until the floor is complete.

RESOURCES :

MacDonald Hardwoods
Website: www.macwoods.com

Environmental Protection Agency
Asbestos Information
Website: www.epa.gov/asbestos

GUESTS :

Adam Berlin
General Contractor
Maverick Home Remodeling Inc.
Website: www.RenewTheHome.com

Mark Emsbach
Above & Beyond Flooring
Hardwood Installation Pros
Website: www.aboveandbeyondflooring.biz