DIY Network

Valet Cabinet From "Wasted Spaces" episode DWSP-109

(Continued from page 1)

Tips:

• If you rerouted any electrical, make sure you include those measurements when cutting the plywood for the base of your unit. You will need to make a corresponding cut through your plywood back in order to make use of that electrical source.

• If you don't want to cut the wood you can take the measurements to a hardware store and have them cut the lumber.

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Using a PVC strip as the track for the roll-top door, glue with construction adhesive then staple the PVC around the arches drawn on the plywood. This is the track the roll-top door will slide and rest. Trim off any excess with a utility blade.

Track for Roll-top Door

The track system for the roll-top door will be created and built right into the inside of the pantry (as opposed to being built outside and then mounted inside).

On the inside of the plywood sides (the part that will be the side frames of the pantry), draw out a template for the roll-top door track. This is going to create the archway over which the door will fold. When the wood is standing vertically, this should be a symmetrical arch going from one edge of the plywood (to be where the door pulls from) to the other edge (this will be the back, where the door sits when it is open). Do this on each of the two side frame parts of your pantry and measure to make sure that both arches are symmetrical and identical. They need to match in order for the roll-top door to work properly.

Tips:

• The PVC strip is the kind that is used as an end cap for Masonite siding.

• You will want to use staples, not nails, for securing the PVC. Nails are too big and bulky for these tracks.

	Since there are multiple shelves, connect one side of a middle shelf to a long side of the pantry (the vertical piece) using wood glue, then nails and screws.
	Attach the large plywood back to the unit.

Body of Pantry

1. Consider and plan how each component will fit into the pantry. Remember with plywood, one side is generally "better" than the other, so remember to attach the "nicer" side facing out on the area that will be viewed the most.

2. Fasten the other vertical side of the frame to the open side of that first shelf, then add the other shelves below. Put the bottom on, but leave the top off.

3. Before fastening the large backing onto the unit, check the diagonals to make sure everything is square and even. Measure the entire unit twice, diagonally from corner to corner on each side.

Tip: Even though it has been glued, nailed and screwed, a unit this big will still be wobbly and be able to shift around some without a back. If your diagonal measurements are off at all, then you can "shimmy" the unit around a bit to get it balanced before attaching those two final components.

The back of the roll-top door is made of canvas painter's drop cloth. Measure and mark it to fit into the pantry. Once drawn out on the cloth, remember to measure the diagonals to ensure the door will be square.

Roll-top Door/Pantry Base Construction

1. The strong, horizontal element on the roll-top door is built with "half-round," which is actually a style of trim that is half of a round dowel. You can buy it standard from the store.

2. Coat the front with painter's cloth and the back of the half round with spray contact cement.

3. Starting at the top, carefully and precisely line up each half round dowel horizontally on the roll-top door, making sure each one is in place before lining up the next one. Once the glue has made a tight connection, it will be very difficult to realign the part.

4. Continue lining up each half round dowel flush against the one above it. Line them all the way down your painter's cloth to form the door.

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