DIY Network

From Garage to Cottage Learn to turn a disorganized space, into a functioning garage! From "Wasted Spaces" episode DWSP-107

advertisement

Breaking Down the Project

• The garage is freestanding and the door is no longer attached. The garage measured 19'x19' and will become an area for storage and hobbies. The new wall is measured 17'Lx7-1/2'T. The project began with a 17' wide garage door opening. Side walls are concrete block, floor is concrete and header framing above is wood. The plan was to build a wall to enclose the room and keep water from flowing into the garage.

	This garage is now available for secure storage. There are no more Wasted Spaces!
	Use three beads of construction adhesive along with masonry anchor screws to secure pressure treated boards to the floor along the mark. This will act as a sealant so water will not be able to seep into the garage.

Materials:

T1-11 plywood siding
exterior 5' wide pre-hung white French door
paint
2 exterior white windows 33"Wx59"T
window trim
flashing tape
shims
1-1/2" steel angle iron for kayak
paint roller with 1" knap
durable paint brushes
construction adhesive
masonry screws
hammer
nail gun
3" nails
galvanized nails
studs (lumber)
reciprocating saw
primer
miter saw w/steel cutting blade
metal clamp
nuts
bolts

Sealing Garage Floor

1. Use a chalk line to mark exactly where the new wall will go along the concrete floor.

2. Pre-drill holes before attempting to drill the screws in. Use around five screws in each board. Put two on each end and one in the middle.

3. Add the treated boards along the sides of the hole left from the garage door.

Tip:

• Most drills have two speeds. Use the high speed to drill into masonry, then switch to the lower speed to drill in the screws.

	2x6s were used as framing materials to both match up to the existing 6" thick block walls, but also to provide storage shelving space in between the wall studs.
	T1-11 is a plywood product that comes in 4'x8' sheets.

Framing Wall

1. Install 2x6 pressure treated bottom sill using subfloor glue and masonry screws.

2. Install 2x6 top sill (non-treated). This is nailed directly to the underside of the existing header.

3. Install one pressure treated 2x6 stud on either end of the opening. Pressure treated lumber is used in this case because the wood touches the masonry surface.

4. The remainder of the wall is framed in with 2x6 non-treated lumber. 2x6 studs are set 16" on center.

5. Add a thick bead of silicon seal at the bottom of the sill to help keep water from running under the sill and into the garage.

Note: Sheathing, or T1-11 siding, is used to cover the exterior of the wall framing. The style in this project is 5/8" thick and is designed to look like vertical planks when installed. Siding is nailed to studs using #8 galvanized framing nails (nail gun). Nails are spaced about every 8" to 10". For this project, an aluminum flashing piece (called 'Z' flashing) was added to go under the existing siding and lap over the new T1-11 siding. This keeps any rainwater that runs down the wall from getting behind the siding.

Tips:

• Most home centers rent out nail guns and compressors for about $40 per day.

• A window will be put in between the first two studs.

• When using a nail gun with the framing, try a technique called toenailing, which means going in at an angle.

• Use the red squares on your measuring tape to find the center of the studs.

Page  1 | 2 | 3