DIY Network

How to Install Vinyl Siding From "10 Things You Must Know" episode DTEN-108

Here are the 10 Things You Must Know about installing vinyl siding.

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Vinyl Siding Countdown

10. Say goodbye to the brush, sweat and tears. Vinyl siding is tough, durable and maintenance free. It needs nothing more than a rinse from a hose to keep it clean and you never have to paint again. It's a great way to keep your house maintenance free and enhance the look of it.

9. Bring it all down before you build it back up. There are certain materials that you can leave on the house if it's in good shape. However, the best job that money can buy would be to take off what's there, get back to the sheathing, put a house wrap on it, foam and then apply the vinyl siding.

8. Buy enough squares and a couple to spare. When measuring your house for siding, do not deduct for windows or doors. Measure it like it's a square from the width...from the bottom to the top of the peak.

7. One ladder just won't do. Hanging it from one ladder is extremely difficult. You are dealing with a very flimsy pieces. You need at least two ladders and a trusted friend, and if you can get a scaffolding system that would be even better.

6. Always level the playing field. Snap a level line all the way around your house and make sure it's level. The first piece of vinyl you're going to hang is on the starter strip. It will be made of aluminum and it usually comes about three inches in width and 12 feet long. It is important to check your level every four or five courses by putting a level on the siding.

5. When cutting siding, keep it short and sweet. When cutting vinyl siding, it's usually to go into a corner. You need to leave at least a quarter of an inch. Whatever your measurement is, take at least a quarter of an inch or an 1/8 inch on both sides for the panel to slide back and forth. If you don't cut your siding short, when it expands in the summer it's going to buckle.

4. Keep your seams to the back side. Always start from the back of the house and work forward toward the street, so seams are now facing the backyard. Make sure you overlap where you have a joint only when necessary. It's important to use the factory edge at the seams. It assures that you get the proper overlap.

3. Nail it snug, not tight. This is one of the most crucial steps in installing vinyl siding. Never nail the siding to your house, hang it. Set your nails about an 1/8 to 1/16 inch away from the wall. You are not going to set it hard. This will allow movement when it expands or contracts.

2. Air out your attic. When heat builds up in your attic, it can warp your roof. Let that heat escape and keep an even temperature. Vent out your attic by installing perforated soffits with gable vents. Another added bonus would be to get ridge vents that will add airflow through the attic space.

1. Keep the steaks away from the siding. Your grill will be your siding's worst enemy. The heat it generates will damage your siding and you will have to replace it. Keep the barbecue as far from your siding as you can!

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• Water can travel on the underside of sheathing or down roof rafters before dropping off in one or more places. Poke or drill a hole in your ceiling to let the water through. To control where it falls, tack a piece of string into the stream of water and let it hang into a bucket. The water will tend to follow the string. This technique prevents the water from spreading across the top of the ceiling to other areas; it also prevents the ceiling from becoming saturated, often eliminating the chance of collapse and consequent replacement.

• If you have any antennas, satellite dishes or other objects screwed or nailed into your roof, inspect attachment points when you can safely get close enough. A dab of roof flashing in good condition should cover each fastener. The best solution is to avoid mounting anything on your roof in the first place.

• While water stains help indicate that you have a problem with your roof, their presence is unsightly and can be cleaned up using a 50-50 mix of chlorine bleach and water. Just dab the mixture on the stain and it should clear it up. In a dry climate, you don't have to scrub and repaint like you do in other parts of the country.

• There's a big cost spread when it comes to roofing materials. Usually, the longer the warranty, the higher the cost. Low-end asphalt shingles generally have guarantees of approximately 20 years, while thicker, more durable shingles have 40 years or more. Depending on the type of asphalt shingle you choose and your roof's need for an underlay, you could be looking at anywhere from $40 to $150+ per square (100 square feet). Tearing off existing damaged shingles will add approximately $30 to $50 per square.