Ceiling Plank Preparation1. Plank paneling is a wood product and is subject to expansion and contraction. Always allow the planks to acclimate in the room where they will be installed for three days to a week prior to installation.
2. Measure (in inches) the total linear footage of the walls or ceiling in the room where you plan to install the planks. Divide that number by the width of coverage provided by a single plank. If the answer is fractional, round up to the next whole number. The whole number is the number of planks you need. It's a good idea to add 10% to account for waste and mis-cuts. To determine the width of coverage, measure the plank's face from the grooved edge to the back of the tongue.
3. Remove any base moulding, chair rail moulding and crown moulding in the room. If you intend to reuse the moulding, be careful not to damage it during removal. If you are going to install new moulding, use DIY's moulding installation article to decide how much you need. Remove all outlet and switch covers in the room.
4. Locate the wall studs, mark them at the ceiling and floor and snap chalk lines between the marks. If you're installing the paneling on a ceiling, locate the ceiling joists and mark them on opposite walls. If you plan to install the planks vertically, you should drive nails at the lines into the wall studs. If you plan to install the planks horizontally, secure furring strips to the wall 16" on center.
Ceiling Installation Plan
1. Start in one corner of the room with a full-width plank. The plank's grooved edge should be closest to the adjacent wall. The plank should be 1/4" from the adjacent wall and cut to leave a 1/4" gap between each end and the floor/ceiling. Hold the plank in place and face nail it at the grooved side. Nail through the tongue at an angle to secure the plank's other edge. If the plank will cover or go around an outlet, switch, door or window, cut a hole or notch for the opening before installing.
2. Measure up from the floor to the top and bottom edges of the opening. Transfer the measurements to the back of the plank and draw horizontal lines on the panel through the marks.
3. Measure from the corner to the left and right edges of the outlet hole. Transfer the measurements to the back of the plank and draw vertical lines through the marks.
4. The lines should make a vertical rectangle or notch, depending on how the panel meets the opening. Cut out the rectangle or notch with a jigsaw and install the plank.
5. Install the second plank so its groove fits over the tongue of the first. Nail through the tongue of the second plank and continue installing planks until you reach the next corner. Cut holes or notches for any fixtures, doors or windows as described in step one, measuring from the right edge of the previous plank instead of the corner.
6. There probably won't be room to install a full plank at the corner, so you'll have to rip the last plank. Measure from the top of the last full plank to the wall and subtract 1/4" from the measurement. Measure from the bottom of the last full plank and subtract 1/4". Transfer your measurements to the back of the plank you need to cut and draw a line between the marks. Lay the plank face down and use circular saw to rip it. Taking measurements from the top and bottom should make up for any wall intersections that aren't perfectly plumb or square and subtracting 1/4" leaves you with an expansion gap at the next wall. Once cut, you can install the plank by face nailing it in place.
7. Continue installing the rest of the planks around the room.
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