DIY Network

Basement Finish: Framing From "Sweat Equity" episode DSEQ-105

Dave and Anne Husted get started on their basement transformation. General contractor Adam Berlin arrives just in time to walk them through demolition of the existing space and start framing.

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H
	Figure I

Materials:

framing and pressure treated lumber
ramset
chop saw
air compressor
pneumatic nailer
power drill
hammer
wire strippers
screwdrivers
utility knife
pneumatic stapler

Framing Tips:

• Don't assume your foundation walls are straight and plumb. They often aren't, so be sure to check both before framing.

• Save yourself from headaches. Once walls are up in the basement, it is difficult to access wiring, plumbing and duct work. Make any adjustments while the walls are open.

• Plan out the basement to allow for the movement of large items such as furniture or a hot water heater.

Safety Alerts:

• Consult a licensed electrician before working on a circuit or wiring.

• Consult your local building codes before performing any framing.

• Always wear protective eyewear during demolition and when operating power tools.

Basement Framing

• In order to begin properly finishing the basement, Dave and Anne must first get rid of the old, improper framework. With both claw and sledgehammers they tear off the existing drywall and use pry bars to rip off the underlying studs glued to the foundation (figure A).

• With the basement cleared of demolition debris, Adam gets them started on framing a floating wall system. In regions with expansive soils, floating walls prevent damage to walls where concrete floors can shift.

• First, Dave and Adam set down a base plate parallel to one concrete wall. They line up several boards of pressure treated lumber (figure B) and permanently fasten them to the floor using a ramset which delivers the blast of a .22 caliber firearm to drive anchors (figure C).

• Next, they construct one segment of wall frame on the floor for easier layout and fastening. They start by measuring and cutting the perimeter boards using a chop saw (figure D). After joining these boards with a framing nailer, they cut studs to length and nail them within the perimeter at 16-inch intervals (figure E).

• For this particular wall section, Dave must frame out a windowsill. After transferring the measurements off the concrete wall, they support two horizontal sill members by nailing in two queen studs and shorter cripple studs above and below (figure F).

• Next, Dave and Adam set the completed wall section on top of the base plate. Pieces of scrap lumber support the frame as they nail it to the sill plate on top of the home's foundation (figure G).

• Because this is a floating wall system, the bottom of the frame isn't directly attached to the base plate. Instead, it hangs above the base plate about 3.5 inches. Next, they pre-drill a few holes through the bottom member of the wall frame and then drive spikes through and into the base plate (figure H). The spikes hold the wall in place, but allow movement up or down if necessary. If the concrete floor should expand, the base plate now has a buffer zone to prevent wall damage.

• Dave and Anne continue constructing and attaching wall segments using the same procedure, until the entire basement is framed out (figure I).

RESOURCES :

Maverick Home Remodeling, Inc.
Website: www.maverickhomeremodeling.com

Lumber Liquidators
Website: www.lumberliquidators.com

More Space Place
Website: www.morespaceplace.com