DIY Network

Project Paradise: Outdoor Kitchen From "Special Presentation" episode DPJP-SFL

What better way is there to spend more time outdoors than to bring a kitchen to your backyard?

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	The completed outdoor kitchen is stunning.
	The backyard is a true oasis.
	It's a space with loads of character.

Materials:

Outdoor Modular Kitchen

Cal Spas Modular Kitchen
9/16" wrench

Outdoor Kitchen Roof

4 4x4x12s
14 2x6x12s
2 2x4x8s
cedar planks
18" spike brackets
rubber mallet
pneumatic nailer
circular saw
jig saw
chisel

Tile Countertop

tiles
mortar
water
grout
1/4 trowels
plastic spacers
rubber grout float
bucket
wet saw

	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E

Outdoor Modular Kitchen

1. Place the island sections together on the ground (figure A).

2. Make sure that the ground is level where you place the kitchen, for the best possible alignment. If the ground is not level, use shims to level out island sections. This must be done before you install the bolts.

3. First, connect the corner connection modular with the main center modular. Make sure they are aligned.

4. Insert the bolts through the pre-drilled holes from the inside of the barbecue island. (Total of four bolts on each side.)

5. Continue to install each modular component until frame is complete.

6. If you are using propane as your fuel, connect the center modular with the gas line and a separate propane tank for the side burner. Now you're cooking with gas!

Outdoor Kitchen Roof

1. Mark the four corners of your roof area.

2. Drive your 18" spike brackets into the ground at the corner locations (figure B). Take a scrap of 4x4 to drive it into the sub-grade. Hammer it into the ground until you get it to the level you want it (figure C).

3. Before placing the posts into the brackets, make sure to get a 30-degree slope on the roof to get proper water run off. Your front two 4x4s will stand at 10 feet, and your back two will be eight feet tall.

4. Place your posts into your brackets and tighten (figure D).

5. Take a 2x6 and secure the front two posts together on the front side of the facing to create a crossbeam.

6. Repeat the opposite on the back two posts.

7. Create a flourish on each end of all the braces. Use your jigsaw to cut out a template for the end of each 2x6. Trace this template and cut out each end.

8. To maintain the pitch of the roof, notch out a 30-degree angle on each end of the 2x6s where they will sit in the front and rear crossbeams. Chisel out notch to make it clean.

9. Attach all of the 2x6s to the crossbeams (figure E).

10. Once all of the 2x6s are in place, begin to lay the cedar planks that will serve as the roof. These planks are tongue and groove and fit into one another. Lock several in place and then nail them to the frame of the roof. This roof will not be rain proof, but will be water resistant.

	Figure F
	Figure G

Tile Countertop

1. Follow instructions on bag of mortar mix for proper proportions of water to mortar. Mix mortar.

2. Set the edge tiles first since you want all the other tiles to line up behind them. Apply a strip of mortar along the front for the edge tile. Back butter the horizontal side of the pieces to get good coverage on the tile.

3. Give each tile a little twist to make sure all of the mortar makes contact. Spacing is important with these tiles because they will determine the spacing of the field tile. Leave the cut tiles at each end for later.

4. Now you can work in sections setting the full tiles. Scoop mortar on the countertop and spread it evenly within one section, using the straight edge of a notched trowel (figure F). Try not to cover up your layout lines; you'll need them to align the tiles.

5. Using the notched edges of the trowel, comb out the mortar. Hold the trowel at a consistent angle (around 45 degrees) so the top of the mortar has a uniform height. The pattern of the ridges isn't important.

6. Set all of your full tiles first, leaving any cut tiles around the perimeter or by the sinks for last. Align them behind your edge tile and along your layout lines. Keep the grout lines even.

7. It's helpful to use plastic spacers. You can find these at most hardware or tile supply stores. Once a section of tile is set, you can remove the spacers and reuse them in another area.

8. Once the tile mortar is dry you can grout the tile (figure G). Use a padded grout float to spread the grout over a workable section of tile. Push the grout diagonally across the joints to force it down into the gaps.

RESOURCES :

Cal Spas Home Series Spa (H-906),
Cal Flame Modular Outdoor Kitchen and
Cal Flame Fire pit (FPT-400)
Cal Spas
Website: www.calspas.com

DevonStone, Tennyson and
EP Henry Double Sided Coventry Wall
Website: www.ephenry.com

Plantings, Mulch and Sod
Shemin Nurseries, Inc.
Website: www.shemin.net/prodwebsite/home.nsf

GUESTS :

John Opdenaker
Landscaper
Vista Landscaping
215 Morton Ave.
Folsom, PA 19033
Telephone: 1-610-633-8314
Fax: 1-610-583-8225
E-mail: vistalandscapein@aol.com