Basic Tools:measuring tape
square
level
nails
hammer
nail gun
glue
miter saw
jig saw
hand saw
Designed to protect walls from furniture, but just as important as a decorative element, a chair rail is a simple project that can create a dramatic addition to any room. The rail needs to be installed about a third of the way up from the floor. To set this line, Dave sets up a 360-degree laser level and marks the line around the room in pencil. Then, he snaps a chalk-line along his markings to make the line solid.
Dave measures each wall for the length of each rail segment, and then makes quick cuts on the miter saw. He makes sure to cut 45 degree mitered ends to join the rails around corners. To install each rail, he positions the rail over the chalk-line and sets one nail (figure A) to allow the board to pivot. To ensure the rail is parallel, he uses a level and then sets it by nailing into the previously marked studs. As he installs each segment, he fortifies the miter joints with glue.
Next, Dave tackles the picture-frame moldings that add even more charm to the room (figure B). Installed between the chair rail and base molding, the trick is to evenly space and level a series of frames along each wall.
Based on David's design plan, Steve carefully measures and sketches a layout onto the wall. (Because this room's walls vary in length, the dimensions of the moldings for each wall will also vary).
Then, based on his measurements, Dave uses the miter saw to cuts the four sides of each frame to length, again mitering the edges to 45 degrees. Once all the pieces are cut, Dave applies glue to the joints and aligns the 90 degree corners with a framing square. Then, while carefully holding the angle in place, he adds two finishing nails, one into each side of the corner. The nails are set at different heights so that they don't strike one another. He continues until all the frames are complete.
To install, Dave refers to his layout and positions one of the frames on the wall, making sure it is parallel to and centered between the chair railing and base molding. Once aligned, David attaches it with the nail gun. As there may or not be a stud underneath, he crosses these nails at an angle for maximum support. Before nailing in the next adjacent frame, Dave positions it based on this layout, and then uses a level to align it with the previous frame (figure C).
Dave's final project is to prepare and install the crown molding for the room (figure D). Unlike base molding, crown molding sits at an angle between the wall and ceiling. Because of this, placing the crown molding flat on the compound miter saw and making a 45 degree cut won't create the standard miter joint. Instead, each cut must be a compound angle with the bevel angle on the miter saw set at 30 degrees and the miter set at 35 degrees. When attached and cut properly, the resulting joint will be a perfect 90 degrees.
But knowing the angles is only half the battle. When it's his turn to craft and install the crown molding, Dave must know which direction his cuts should go and which direction the molding needs to sit on the saw. After making his cuts, he checks the pieces along the ceiling to make sure they fit, then glues the joint in the corners and attaches the molding to the ceiling and the wall with nails set in a cross pattern (figure E) to keep the molding tight and stable. Any gaps due to an uneven ceiling or where pieces meet can be filled with caulk and later painted over. Repeating this process, Dave sets the crown molding around the room. The trim can be now be painted and the process is done.
It takes the work of many different trades to complete the room, but in the end it's the finish carpenters that make this transformation truly dynamic (figure F).