Materials: pry bars
hammer
screwdrivers
utility knife
straight edge
safety goggles
gloves
pliers
wrench
cement backerboard
circular saw with carbide tip
carbide tip scoring tool
snapper steelhead shear
respirator-type face mask
drill with masonry bit
thinset mortar
notched trowel
1-1/4 nails or screws
pneumatic nail gun with 1-1/4 nails
alkali resistant glass fiber mesh reinforcement tape
tape measure
chalk line
tiles
tile spacers
multi-purpose thinset mortar
transition hardware
wet saw or tile cutter
tile nippers
sanded grout
grout float
towels
bucket of water
sponges
Backerboard InstallationNote: It's important to have a strong subfloor under tile installation–as any flexing in the floor will crack the tiles. The general rule: The total thickness of subfloor and underlayment under tile should be at least 1-1/8 inch thick. The material under tile should be exterior grade plywood CDX or better. However, tile backerboard is best, especially in the bathroom as it's water-resistant.
Note: Before installing backerboard, ensure that the subfloor is sound and not loose, warped or damaged. Ensure that it's clean and flat.
1. Hardibacker is a fiber-cement backerboard made especially for tile subfloor installation. It's water-resistant, cuts easily, and is available in several sizes and 1/4" and 1/2" thickness (1/4" is the standard). For this project, 1/2" backerboard was used in the hallway and 1/4" backerboard in the bathroom to create a level surface down the hall and into the bathroom.
2. Cement backerboard can be cut with a carbide tip scoring tool (figure A), circular saw with a carbide tip (set saw for thickness of board), or mechanical Snapper Steelhead Shear. Wear eye protection and respirator-type face mask when cutting cement backerboard. Use a straight edge to score the material and then snap to break apart. Large cuts can be made with a circular saw. You can also use a drill with a masonry bit to make pilot holes – for such cut-outs as circular patterns and then hit it out using a hammer.
3. Backerboard layout: Lay backerboard in a "brickwork" type pattern–meaning that sheets are offset (figure B). No four corners should meet at any point. Do not align sheet joints with subfloor joints. In a narrow hallway, the boards can be installed in a line.
4. Using a notched trowel, apply a leveling bed of thinset mortar over the subfloor and embed the backerboard sheets into the adhesive. Spread mortar to about 3/16" thickness. Add more mortar as necessary to fill sunken areas in.
5. Lay backerboard according to the manufacturer's instructions. Many have a nailing pattern that should go face up–with a nailing pattern every 8" on center.
6. Fasten the backerboard to the floor using proper nails or screws, as recommended by the manufacturer, every 8" around the perimeter and all supporting studs (figure C). Keep fasteners between 3/8" and 3/4" from sheet edges and 2" in from sheet corners. Make sure that nail or screw heads are not sticking up above the board surface. Wear safety goggles when using a nail gun.
7. In some cases, the backerboard joints are taped using 2" wide glass fiber mesh cementitious alkali-resistant backer unit reinforcing tape (see product instructions – usually needed for wide areas). The tape will help disperse any movement of the boards, and decrease the probability of popping or cracking tiles along the seams.
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