Materials:3/4 inch birch plywood
Picture frame trim
Miter saw
Paint
Primer
Paint rollers
Standard construction adhesive
Tape measure
Carpenter's pencil
Batten
4 foot level
Wall Paneling
1. To determine the number of panels you'll need, measure the perimeter of the room and divide by four. Check to see if walls are plumb and flat. If not, consider furring walls out with 1"x 2" furring strips.
2. Remove moldings...including base board, trim around doors and windows, along with switch plates and outlet covers (figure A). Leave moldings and fit the panels carefully in place. Small, supplemental moldings can aid in finishing.
3. Begin paneling in a corner most visible when you enter the room. To position the first panel properly, measure out from the corner 48". This point in the wall should correspond with the center of a stud. If not, trim panel width accordingly. Next, use a level to draw a plumb line at the point just located. This line will serve as a reference for making sure the first panel is level and its edge is positioned on the center of the stud. All following panels will be plumb.
4. To cut panels to fit around doors and windows, place the panel along side and mark the areas on the panel face to be cut out.
- For 1/8" thick panels, use a utility knife to cut panels face up. Lightly cut a guide line and then follow with deeper cuts through the first and into the second ply. Bend back then forward to snap the panel and separate. To cut around electrical outlets and switches, cover the perimeter of the box with chalk or paint. Then, fit the panel to the wall and press to transfer the box outline (figure B). Cut through the back at the corner marks of the box imprint and then on the front. Then, break out the area.
- For 5/32" and 1/4" thick panels, saw face up with a hand or table saw (figure C). If using a portable power or radial arm saw, transfer door and window markings to panel back by accurate measuring, then saw face down. Mark electrical openings as described in the paragraph above. Then, drill one hole to start and cut openings with a keyhole or saber saw.
5. For fastening, two methods are used according to panel thickness.
- For 1/8" and 5/32" thick panels, use a minimum nailing pattern for overlay on existing walls (figure D). If wall condition has loose plaster, wallpaper, peeling paint or grease, use an adhesive pattern and a full nailing pattern. Once the panel has been fitted to the wall, apply a continuous strip of panel adhesive in a zigzag pattern across the back and around the perimeter 3" in from the edges (figure E). Check warranty stipulations for the spacing requirements for the panel substrate. Set the glued panel in place and gently tap with a rubber mallet. Place a 1-5/8" paneling nail in each panel corner to secure as adhesive sets.
- For 1/4" thick panels, a full nailing pattern is required for installation to studs or furring strips. Check warranty stipulations for the spacing requirements for the panel substrate. Apply adhesive directly to studs or furring strips. If installing to existing wall, use the adhesive pattern. Place panel to wall and nail at the top, middle and bottom to hold in place. Use 1" panel nails, nailing every 12" along panel edges and 16" across and down face of panel on stud centers.
6. For walls that are not plumb or flat, nail vertical furring strips to studs, gypsum or masonry walls to match panel edges. Place strips about 16" apart horizontally, "shimming" out where necessary for an even wall surface. For block walls and walls below ground level, real wood substrate panels can be used in areas that are not damp or moist. Walls must be sealed and waterproof. Use studs or furring strips over walls, and allow room for electrical outlets and insulation. A plastic vapor barrier must be applied before installing the wall panels.
7. The paneled walls look great (figure F)!