DIY Network

Claw Foot Tub Installation: Removing Pipes and Setting Tiles From "Weekend Remodeling" episode WKR-305

	Before: This garden tub just didn't suit the homeowner's taste any longer.
	After: a spacious and elegant new claw foot tub.

On a project difficulty scale of 1-5 (5 being most difficult), this project rates a 3.

Materials:

Cement board
Screws
Thin-set
Wall mastic
Ceramic tile
Spacers
Tile grout
Rubber grout float
Sponge and water
Claw foot bathtub
Plumbing fixtures
Exposed pipes
Various pipes, elbows and connectors
PVC glue
Solder
Torch
Plumbers putty
Trowel
Pry bar
Cold chisel
Tape measure
Allen wrenches
Level
Hammer
Utility knife
Tile cutter
Wet saw
Drill
Paddle bit
Sponge
Framing square
Speed square
Caulk gun and caulk
Hole saw
Pipe cutter
Tile nippers
Tube cutter
Chalk line
Safety glasses
Dust mask
2 x 4
Drywall
Joint compound
Hack saw
Floor scraper

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H

1. Measure off both walls to find the center of the work area. Next, measure and mark the location of the supply lines and mark area for the drain.

   
   

2. Drill holes for the supply lines using a 1" paddle bit (figure A). Use a 2" hole saw to drill a hole for the drain.

   
   

3. In this example, an open area has been left where the old tub motor was located. A piece of drywall is installed to cover the hole and joint compound is applied around the edges. Use joint compound to fill any holes or damaged areas.

   
   

4. Make sure power is still off, and remove the electrical box (if it exists). Cut the line and pull underneath the house. Cap the wires (figure B) and secure in an electrical box.

   
   

5. Cut the PVC drain pipe using a hacksaw, then use a pipe cutter to cut the supply lines (figure C)s.

6. Temporarily cap the supply lines until the plumbing is re-routed (this will keep water from going everywhere). Go back into the bathroom and remove the old supply lines.

7. Patch the floor. Here, Reveiz squares the hole with a circular saw before adding 3/4" plywood and cement board (figure D).

8. Begin setting the wall tiles by placing a ledger board on the floor against the wall. Add the bottom row, allowing the tiles to rest against the board (figure E). This keeps the tiles from shifting during the application.

9. Continue up the wall as needed, setting spacers between each tile. At the end, set in bull-nose pieces, then remove the ledger board. Measure for the small pieces at bottom, cut with wet saw and set the entire bottom row (figure F).

10. Move on to the floor tiles. Remove any partial tiles by scoring grout joints with a utility knife. Use a pry bar to pry the tiles loose, before scraping old thin-set away from the floor (figure G).

11. Begin setting new tiles following the existing pattern and working in sections (figure H). Add thin-set and press the new tiles in place. As you get to the area where new holes for plumbing will be needed, simply use the speed square to align, then drill out the holes. Set in place as with other tiles. Cut and set the tiles around the outer perimeters near the walls. Replace baseboards as needed.