DIY Network

Framing the Aquarium Wall From "Weekend Remodeling" episode WKR-303

The finished aquarium and matching recessed bookshelf.

Many find aquariums to be the ultimate in quiet beauty and serenity -- and for that reason, aquariums are seen more frequently in both public spaces and private homes. If you would like to add an aquarium without sacrificing floor space, then host Fuad Reveiz has just the project for you: a recessed aquarium.

On a scale of 1-5, with 5 being most difficult, this project rates a 2.

Materials:

2 x 4, 2 x 2 and 1 x stock
Drywall
Drywall tape
Joint compound
Joint compound knife
Drywall screws
Drywall saw
Router
Interior trim
Caulk
Paint, paint brush and roller
Aquarium, pump and filter
Aerator and hose
Biscuit joiner
Clamps
Table saw
Spiral cut saw
Speed square
Chalk line
4" toggle bolts
Tape measure
Level
Reciprocating saw
Hammer
Utility knife
Circular saw
Miter saw
Drill
Framing square
Framing nailer
Trim nailer
Bucket

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H
	Figure I
	Figure J
	Figure K

1. In this example, the aquarium won't be recessed into an existing wall; rather, a new wall will be constructed to take advantage of an existing ledge.

2. First, an electrical outlet is added to the wall behind the future location of the aquarium. After turning off the breaker, a hole is cut in the seat to allow access to both walls. The wall is measured and marked for placement of the new outlet, then a spiral saw is used to cut away the drywall (figure A).

3. Non-metallic building electrical wire or cable is fished through the opening, cut and pulled through the new electrical box. Tip: For this or any other type of electrical project, it's recommended that any do-it-yourselfer contact a professional if inexperienced in electrical work.

4. The cable is tightened and the wires are strip. The outlet is attaching; first, the green ground wire is attached, the black wire is attached to the brass terminal, and the white is attached to the silver.

5. The outlet is secured. The non-metallic sheathed cable is pulled through the existing box, the wires are connected, and the power is turned back on before the outlet is tested.

6. The lip is removed from the window seat ledge. The depth of the overhand, plus the width of the drywall, is measured and marked with a chalk line.

7. A circular saw is used to begin removal of the lip (figure B), before a reciprocating saw finishes the job.

8. To begin framing the wall (figure C), first add a bottom plate, minus 1/2" for the drywall.

9. Measure for the end piece -- which will go from the end of the ledge in this case, and back to the exterior wall -- minus 1/2" for the drywall.

10. Install the first stud against the wall next to the door frame. Use a level to ensure it's plumb.

11. Install the angled top plates on the ceiling (figure D). Insert 4" toggle bolts into the predrilled 2 x 4s and insert into holes into the ceiling. Tighten the bolts.

12. Cut the studs for the walls The tops of the first two are cut at an angle and at different lengths that the others. The rest of the studs should be about the same length.

13. Install the cleat (essentially a 2 x 6 brace) on the exterior wall. Use jack studs underneath to strengthen and support the cleat.

14. To secure the front braces, add jack studs and nail in place (figure E).

15. Add 2 x 6 joists that span the braces (figure F), then cover the joists with 3/4" plywood shelf (figure G) to support the tank.

16. Install a header board atop the framing and add a vertical stud (figure H) in between to anchor the drywall that will be added later.

17. Finally, install jack studs and a sill plate for the shelving area.

18. To begin adding drywall, start installing on the end of the new wall section. Set the first piece along the front surface and secure to the studs (figure I).

19. Use a spiral cut saw to remove areas for the shelving and tank (figure J).

20. Install the piece of drywall cut to fit the angled part of the ceiling (only if necessary for your project, which may not have an angled ceiling).

21. Finally, install the corner bead (figure K).