DIY Network

Materials:

Power drill
Tape measure
Hammer
Chalk line
Level
Combination square
Framing square
Hand saw
Gloves
Goggles
Dust mask
Lag screws
Expansion bolt (for bolting into the cement foundation, if necessary)
Carriage bolt
Spiral nails
Ring shank nails
Joist hangers/saddles (saddles are brackets that hold perpendicular joists on top of a beam)
Post fasteners (to fasten a wooden post to a cement footer)
2 x 6 rafters and ledger lumber
4 x 8 sheets of half inch plywood
Plywood clips
16d nails
Chalk
Pencil
Saw horses
4 safety glasses
6 sets ear protection (plugs)
(2) 6' stepladders
8' walkboard
Laser level or water level
4' level
Utility knife and blades
Caulking gun
Sliding bevel (optional)

	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E

Installing the Ledger

1. A ledger/header board is the first step if you are attaching your roof to an existing structure. The placement of the ledger/header determines the level of the roof, so be sure it is positioned at the correct height and is horizontal (figure A).

2. When fastening ledger/header boards to wood, the ledger should be held securely with bolts through the wall or lag screws.

3. Use aluminum flashing to keep water from getting behind your ledger board. The flashing should tuck up under your siding and bend down over the ledger, then down the face of the ledger board.

Rafters

• Rafters are painted and joist hangers are attached before hanging (figure B).

• Two by six rafters are attached to the house with joist hangers and/or supported by a ledger board. A sliding bevel can be used -- if necessary -- to determine angles needed to be cut where the rafters will meet the ledger board.

• Rafters are placed on 24" centers, and attached to the beams and settle joist (figure C). Rafters can be attached to the beams using joist hangers, or rest on the beam in a joist saddle for a more secure fit.

• The rafters should be added from each end working toward the center. Each rafter is check for level as they are installed, attached to ledger first, then settle joists. Vertical end beam is checked for level (figure D) as the end rafters are positioned and secured to settle joist to hold the rafter level and plumb.

• If the rafters extend over a beam, do not extend more than 1/3 of overall rafter length.

• Finally, add fascia board to end of rafters for a finished appearance (figure E).

1. Check the rafter ends (tails) to be sure they are all on a straight line. If the walls are crooked, the rafter tails will also be crooked. Try to correct this problem; but if you are unable to, pop a chalk line across the rafter tails and trim them with your saw before attaching the sheathing. This is crucial because this building line will be a very noticeable one when viewed from below.

2. Begin applying the sheets from the bottom of the roof (the eaves) and work your way up to the ridge. The last course at the top may need to be rip cut if the roof is not in 4 foot increments. It is important here that the sheathing at the eave line be exactly perpendicular to the rafters so that the sheets will meet at the centers of the rafters it is even more important that it be perpendicular than that it is flush with the rafter tails. A tapered piece of sheathing can be cut to fill in at the eave if necessary.

3. Usually, code, which can vary locally, requires nails every 6 inches on the edge and 12 inches in the field. Snap a chalk line across the sheets to mark the centers of the rafters for a nailing guide.

4. Do not nail the edge rafters where the sheathing meets until the adjoining sheet is in place. This will enable you to move the rafter a bit if needed, so that the sheathing meets in the center of the rafter.

5. Stagger the joints of each course of sheathing. This can be done efficiently by cutting a panel in half and using these half sheets to start every other course. Special metal plywood clips will add stability to the splices where the sheets meet between rafters

6. Carefully work your way up to the peak of the roof. Check for alignment and end support as you go. For safety, temporarily nail a 2 x 4 "toe board" horizontally across the lower panel of sheathing to brace yourself against as you add the second and subsequent courses of sheathing.

7. Sheath one slope of the roof at a time, ripping the top course to the needed width at the ridge. When one slope is completely sheathed, pop a chalk line down any slope edge (as in a hip roof) that needs to be cut at an angle. You may prefer to cut these panels before you nail them in place.

8. Set your circular saw to the correct depth and angle for cutting along the edge and saw off the excess overhang.

The waterproof barrier used on the Hussers' roof was two-layered, with each layer requiring the same installation method.

1. Roll out the first row on the end of the roof furthest from the house and cut the ends to leave about an inch of overhang on all sides (figure F).

2. Fold the piece in half to remove the plastic backing and expose adhesive.

3. Stick this side down and repeat the folding to the other side and once again remove backing.

4. Roll the next row out over the first, working your way up the pitch toward the house.

5. When all rows are adhered trim the excess overhand closer to the edge of the plywood.

6. Add a drip edge to the perimeter, then add the second layer of roofing material over the first layer using the same process.

7. Be sure to let the second layer extend over the drip edge by at least a quarter inch.

8. Finally, use a water filled roller to press all of the waterproof material together and into the plywood roofing.

Professional Installation = $2,750
Cost of Materials = $1,010
Amount Saved by Doing It Yourself = $1,740