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Most DIYers have dreamed of a having an ultimate workshop, but sometimes it's difficult to make those dreams a reality. As with any major project, a sound plan is key. Initial considerations: Where do I put it? What materials do I use to build it? How much can I acutally do myself? The secret to success: Thinking through the plan in detail and making sure the plan includes details for every aspect of the workshop space.
- Here (figure A): 24' wide x 32' long -- a little larger than the average 2-car garage, with a small alcove on one side with French doors to create an attractive entrance ...10' high walls instead of the typical 8' walls to give it plenty of overhead space.
- Once you've decided on a set of blueprints that fit your particular needs, the next step is to mark the location of your workshop using stakes and spray paint ( figure B).
- Check property lines if unsure ... for concerns about the area -- grade, solidity , etc. -- get a professional surveyor to do a survey
- Once your survey's done, you'll know the type of foundation you'll need; it may just be a concrete slab ... or -- if the area is sloped -- a raised foundation like the one shown in figure C, will be required.
- Bottom line: A strong, level foundation is a must before the building process can begin.
- Here, the crew has subcontracted the entire foundation phase; you may want to as well. The first step is to dig trenches for the footings. Next, secure the footings for the foundation within the trenches (figure D). Then add re-bar reinforcements (steel bars used to increase the strength of concrete), as shown in figure E.
- Finally, they ordered concrete and poured the actual footings (figure F).
- After the footings cured, the masons arrived and added the block walls of the foundation (figure G) on top of the footings. The mortar in the block walls also had to cure to ensure the walls were structurally sound.
- Once the walls were capable of supporting the weight, the subcontractor added several loads of gravel inside (figure H) the foundation walls to provide a solid base for the concrete slab.
- Next, the subcontractor poured the foundation slab so that it was flush with the tops of the foundation walls. Finishing the surface of the slab so it's perfectly smooth (figures I and J) requires patience, skill and experience; one more reason we subbed out this part of the job.
- With the foundation complete, it's time to start framing the walls. The first step is to lay out the 2x4s (figure K) which will serve as wall studs, as well the 2x4s that will comprise the horizontal top and bottom plates.
- Attach the studs every 16" on center to both the bottom plate and top plate by end-nailing them together (figure L).
- At this point, the exact size of the doors and windows has yet to be determined , so the openings will be framed after the walls are set into place.
- Cover the exterior side of each wall with plywood sheathing; for this workshop , the crew goes ahead and covers the sheathing with house wrap, which is secured with a staple gun. (House wrap is simply a synthetic fabric that prevents air from infiltrating a home.)
Note: Depending on the specifics of the building process, it may be easier in some cases to secure the house wrap once the walls are up.
- Once the wall is framed and covered with sheathing, simply snap a chalk line (figure M) the appropriate distance from the edge of your slab. This will give you a reference line to guide you when setting the wall upright.
- Now you're ready to raise the wall using the pre-marked line as a guide (figure N).
- Temporarily support the wall using long support boards anchored by stakes in the ground (figure O). Then check to be sure the wall is plumb using a level (figure P) and secure it to the slab using fasteners (figure Q). Here we're using concrete nails; you'll want to attach the wall to the slab every one to two linear feet.
- After the first wall is secure, use the same process to frame and secure the subsequent walls.
- Special sheathing situation -- 8' walls (most) v 10' walls (here), standard plywood sheathing comes in 8' sections... to attach the 2' filler sections, H-clips -- like the one shown in figure R -- are used at regular intervals to create a secure bond between the pieces (figure S).
(Darrin John, Up-Dated Interiors)
- Our crew follows the same procedure for all remaining walls: framing, adding the sheathing and the house wrap and setting the walls into place.
- Remember, it's critical to make sure your walls are plumb when installing them and attaching them to one another.
- When the perimeter walls are all in place, the last few pieces of sheathing can be added. Then it's time to work on the top of the walls and tie them all together.
- When installing the top plate -- the topmost horizontal element of a stud-frame wall -- overlap the ends of the boards at the corners so that the shorter end of the underlying joint (figure T) is covered by the top plate (figure U). This "opposite" positioning will create a tight joint that will securely tie the walls together.
- With the addition of the top-plate, the wall framing process is now complete (figure V).
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