With the structure of the log cabin nearing completion, work can begin on installation of various fixtures such as the propane-gas heater and propane-powered tankless water heater.
Tankless Water Heater
A tankless water heater was selected because of its efficiency and ability to supply plenty of hot water without the need for a hot-water tank.
The propane crew begins installation of the tankless water heater by measuring the unit and the exterior wall where it will be installed. They determine the most suitable location for installation and test-fit the unit before it is permanently secured (figure A).
Once they've determined the best location and fit, the unit is attached to the wood exterior using brackets and screws.
The outside of the heater unit has in and out connections for water as well as a connection for propane gas (figure B).
The water is heated by a propane-powered heater inside the unit as it passes through coils of copper pipe (figure C).
Propane Heater Installation
To begin installation of the propane heater that will warm the inside of the house, a hole will need to be cut through the exterior log wall to accommodate the vent on the back of the heater. Because the log wall is so thick, a pilot hole is drilled first using a power drill and extra-long drill bit.
Once the pilot hole has been drilled all the way through the wall to the outside, a heavy-duty power drill equipped with a 3-1/4" hole saw is used to cut a hole through the log wall (figure D).
Because the wall is thicker than the cutting depth of the hole saw, the hole must be partially cut from the interior, then from the exterior using the pilot hole as a guide to ensure that the two cuts meet. A chisel and hammer are used to remove the wood in the center of the cut and complete the hole so that it extends all the way through the wall (figure E).
With the hole complete, a vented sleeve is installed (figure F). The sleeve assembly is in two pieces so that half can be inserted from the outside, then connected with the second piece from the inside.
With the vent and sleeve installed, the propane-heater unit can be positioned in place (figure G). The unit is heavy and requires two men to lift and position it.
The vent connection on the back of the unit is joined to the vented sleeve (figure H).
Though small in size, the propane unit installed is capable of delivering 30,000 BTU's -- a heat output that is more than ample for the space it will be heating. Because propane is such a clean-burning fuel, it will be able to heat the house sufficiently while allowing for good indoor air quality free of any fumes or exhaust.
Both the tankless water heater and the propane-gas heater -- as well as other power essentials such as lights and kitchen appliances -- can be powered by the propane auxiliary generator in the event of a power outage.
Wooden Side-Porch Steps
Rather than installing a front railing on the wooden side porch, the porch was extended with wooden steps. The steps are 10' wide and made from 1-1/2" 2x6 planks for stability.
Since the steps will not be sheltered by the roof and will be exposed to rain, they were constructed from pressure-treated wood, which resists rot and deterioration.
The Flagstone Front Porch
Because of the weight of the large flagstones used to construct the porch, a tractor is used to transport the stones from the stone pile to the porch site.
A shovel is used to mix the mortar in a container set on the concrete porch pad. After thoroughly cleaning off the porch pad, a small amount of mortar is shoveled onto the pad where the first stone will be installed -- directly in front of the entryway.
The mortar is spread evenly using a trowel, and the first stone is laid in place (figure I). Since this stone will sit at the entryway to the house, a select piece of stone was used to ensure an attractive look.
The stone is carefully positioned and worked down into the wet mortar by hand (figure J) to ensure a good contact and adhesion between the flagstone surface, the mortar and the porch pad.
A level is used to ensure that this particular stone is slanted slightly away from the door sill (figure K); the slant will help any moisture drain away from the door, floor joist and crawlspace.
Several more stones are positioned for a good fit and laid in place. Slightly drier mortar is carefully packed between the stones by hand (figure L).
Progress continues, positioning more stones to create a unified look (figure M). The mortar between the stones serves as grout to fill the gaps between them and to lock each individual stone firmly in place. Once the mortar dries completely, the porch will be "solid as rock."
The finished flagstone porch makes for an aesthetically complementary addition to the log walls and the open feel of the post-and-beam front porch (figure N).
The stone porch is later extended into the yard with the installation of a stone walkway.
RESOURCES :
Special Thanks for DIY Build a Log Cabin workshop
Blossman Gas
Website: www.blossmangas.com/
The Complete Guide to Building Log Homes
ISBN: 0806974869
Author: Monte Burch, Richard J. Meyer, Lloyd P. Birmingham
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com
The Cabin: Inspiration for the Classic American Getaway
Model: 0879056711
Author: Dale Mulfinger, Susan E. Davis
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Small Log Homes: Storybook Plans and Advice
ISBN: 1586850431
Author: Robbin Obomsawin
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
Inside Log Homes: The Art & Spirit of Home Planning and Decor
Model: 087905963X
Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede, et al
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
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