Cabin Side-Porch One of the most enjoyable features of a rustic log cabin is a porch where you can sit, relax and enjoy the fresh air in comfort. The cabin built in our demonstration was outfitted with two porches: a large front porch with a stone floor, and a smaller side porch that we're going to build entirely out of wood. Much of the porch structure was constructed of pressure-treated wood so it will never rot.
Construction on the side porch begins by nailing a pressure treated 2x8 to the outside of the house using 16-penny nails (figure A).
The carpenters then build a strong framework using pressure-treated lumber. A pressure-treated 2x2 is attached to either end of the porch framework, then 2x6 floor-joists are attached at 16" intervals to support the porch floor (figure B).
Once the joists and a wooden perimeter have been put in place, 1/4" decking boards -- each one is 6" wide -- are nailed to the floor joists using a power nailer (figure C).
A 6" by 8" side beam is lifted up and placed into a notch that the carpenters have cut on the top course of logs (figure D). The beam is then supported with a temporary post. The same process is repeated on the other side.
The front beam is then lifted into place ( figure E)and slipped into the notches cut on the ends of the side beams. It may be necessary to fine-tune the notches using a circular saw to get a snug fit. Support posts are put temporarily in place and checked to make certain they are plumb.
A unique rustic porch railing, which had been fabricated earlier from rough-cut tree-limbs, is then installed. The preassembled railing is held against the house (figure F) to mark the spots where holes will need to be drilled for the 3/4" railing tenon to slip into.
At the other end of the railing, the end of the railing is custom-cut to the proper length so that the railing fits snugly between the exterior wall and the post. Tenons are then fabricated on the ends of the fresh cuts using a tenon-cutting bit (figure G).
The railing is then held against the post to determine where to place the mounting holes. A 3/4" bit is then used to drill out holes in the post at the marked location. By moving the support post slightly, the railing can be moved into position. The post is then returned to its original position so that it is once again plumb. The railing is now held in place in the newly drilled holes. With the floor, posts, beams and railing complete, the crew prepares to build a roof over the porch. The porch roof will connect to the roof on the main part of the house (figure H).
Rafters are cut and nailed to the center beam to begin forming the roof assembly. Once the main rafters are attached to the beam, the assembly is raised into place (figure I) and nailed into position on the side beam (figure J).
The top of the rafter is then nailed to the ridge beam. Once the main structure is in place (figure K), it takes little time to secure the rest of the rafters.
Once the rafters are secured, plywood decking is cut and installed.
Cabin Gable Treatments With the roof structure in place, work can begin on framing out the gable ends -- the triangular portion of the house formed where two rooflines meet.
The carpenters begin by marking the locations of the vertical studs -- every 16" -- along a 2x4 plate nailed on top of the log wall. With the markings finished, the carpenters begin nailing vertical studs to the bottom and top plates (figure L ). Since the studs vary in length (allowing them to fit into the triangular space), and because each stud has to be bevelled at the top, this step takes longer than framing a regular wall.
The wall is made somewhat more complicated since it will include a window, located in the center section of the wall. With the vertical studs in place, a window framework -- jack-stud, jack, windowsill and window cripple -- is lifted into position (figure M).
At the section of the framework below the windowsill, 1/2" plywood sheeting will be installed, then covered with log siding to match the log exterior. From the exterior, the siding will be visibly identical to the actual logs and will stain the same wood tone.
Once the window cripples are nailed in place (figure N), 1/2"-inch plywood can be installed.
The plywood sheathing nailed to the gable-end framework (figure O) provides additional strength to the house as well as an extra layer of protection from the weather (figure P).
The strips of log siding that came with the cabin kit are nailed to the framework (figure Q) using galvanized nails. With the layer of plywood underneath, there will be no danger of wind penetrating through the end joists.
Where the log siding butts up against the window, a piece of 2x2 trim is nailed in place framing the window opening.
With the window frame in place, the job is complete (figure R). Any slight variations in color or grain between the log walls and the log siding will gradually disappear as the wood ages and weathers.
The next phase of the project will involve repeating this same process on the gabled roof above the side porch.
RESOURCES :
Special Thanks for DIY Build a Log Cabin workshop
Blossman Gas
Website: www.blossmangas.com/
The Complete Guide to Building Log Homes
ISBN: 0806974869
Author: Monte Burch, Richard J. Meyer, Lloyd P. Birmingham
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com
The Cabin: Inspiration for the Classic American Getaway
Model: 0879056711
Author: Dale Mulfinger, Susan E. Davis
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Small Log Homes: Storybook Plans and Advice
ISBN: 1586850431
Author: Robbin Obomsawin
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
Inside Log Homes: The Art & Spirit of Home Planning and Decor
Model: 087905963X
Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede, et al
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
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