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  • Log Cabin Special -- Interior Walls, Ceiling Joists and Porch Supports
  • From "Special Presentation"
    episode BLC-S
    advertisement

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    Because the tub-and-shower unit is so large, it will need to be brought into the house and positioned before construction begins on the interior walls.

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure A

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    Figure K

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    Figure L

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    Figure M

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    Figure N

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    Figure O

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    Figure P

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    Figure Q

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    Figure R

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    Figure S

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    Blueprints are consulted frequently throughout exterior and interior phases of construction.

    Interior Walls


    With the exterior log walls completed, work can begin on the interior partition walls. First, however, it will be necessary to bring in our combination tub-and-shower unit. The carpenters bring the molded bathroom unit in, and they'll then actually build the bathroom walls around it. It takes three men to carefully carry the tub-and-shower unit through the house and around our wall bracing to move it into position. It's too large to bring in after the walls are built, so they set it in place in the master bathroom, just before beginning the interior walls.




    After checking the blueprints, lengths of 2x4 are used to help visualize where the walls will be (figure A). This is the last chance to make any minor changes, so it's important to be sure each interior wall is positioned properly.




    The crew then measures and marks the precise location of each of the walls for the bedroom, hallway and bathroom ( figure B). It's important that they check all measurements carefully because if just one is off by a fraction of an inch, it can cause problems later when hanging drywall and installing doors.




    Once they're certain the marks are correct, the crew snaps a chalk line across the subfloor to serve as a guide (figure C). It's important that the chalk line be sharp and clear so that it will be visible for use in aligning the wall.




    The carpenters lay out the 2x4 wall studs that they need for the first wall (figure D). This is the easiest and most accurate way to build the interior walls.




    The crew frames each doorway with double studs on the sides and a strong header across the top (figure E). The extra lumber provides stability at what would otherwise be a weak point in the wall.




    As soon as the first wall is complete, it takes three men to lift it up into position (figure F). The bottom plate of the framed wall is lined up on the chalk line we snapped earlier.




    Once aligned properly, the bottom plate will be nailed into place on the subfloor. A 4' level is used to determine the precise location where the interior wall joins to the exterior log wall. Once the wall is perfectly straight, it can be nailed to the exterior wall using the power nailer (figure G).




    With the first wall complete, the floor is clear for the crew to start building the next wall (figure H). These steps will be repeated for each of the walls, comprising the bathrooms, hallway and bedroom. Once the positioning is worked out, the walls can be framed and erected fairly quickly.













    Ceiling Joists


    With the exterior walls complete, and the interior partition walls up, work can begin on installing the ceiling joists over the bathroom and bedroom. The ceiling joists will later support the drywall.


    The joists are constructed from 2x6 boards. They are prepared for installation by cutting a notch at one end of each 2x6 joist so the corner of the board won't strike the underside of the roof (figure I).


    The joists are set 24" apart and secured using a power nailer (figure J).


    Scraps of 2x4 are used for spacers to keep the joists positioned properly as they're nailed in place (figure K).


    The carpenters keep repeating this process until the ceiling joists are complete.






    Porch Beams and Supports

    As the ceiling structure nears completion, work can begin on the framework for the covered front porch.


    Notches are cut in the top row of logs in order to tie each of the porch beams into the rest of the cabin. Two side beams extend outward from the front log wall of the house (figure L).


    It takes two crew members to carry each beam up and hold it in place while, using 2x4s, the others build a temporary brace to hold it up.


    Even at this early stage, it's important that the beam be adjusted so that it's perfectly level (figure M).


    A notch is cut in the ends of the two beams that will span the front porch (figure N).


    The carpenters stretch a string across the front porch so they can measure and determine the exact height of each of the four posts (figure O).


    Three temporary posts are cut to hold up the beams. The supports are shimmed and straightened until the beam is in line with the string, then the crew uses horizontal bracing to hold the beams in place (figure P).


    The crew then drills a pilot hole and installs a 10" lag screw to pin the side and front beams together where they overlap.


    The permanent posts that will support the beams will be secured to the concrete porch-pad using metal post-brackets. With a metal bracket held in place as a guide, a 1/2" hole is drilled in the front corner of the porch for the first bracket (figure Q).


    Each hole is cleaned out with a blast of air, then epoxy is injected into the hole to fix the bolt that will anchor the bracket in place.


    With the bolt secured, the bracket is replaced and secured using a washer and nut.


    The post slides over the metal brackets (figure R), where it will be held secure and remain dry.


    The process is repeated for the other three posts.


    With all four posts in place (figure S), the carpenters can go to work on the rafters and the rest of the roof.





    Tip: The posts and other wood components of the house exterior may get some dents, scuffs or scratches during the construction and installation process. There's really no way to completely prevent this sort of minor damage. Later, once the major elements are installed and the construction project is nearing completion, you can go back and use a power sander with 120-grit paper to sand off any marks or scuffs that bother you. Since the wood used in the beams and support-posts is not pressure-treated wood, you'll probably want to protect it from the rain and the sun. Once you've sanded it, come back and give it two coats of a clear exterior finish.


    RESOURCES :

    Special Thanks for DIY Build a Log Cabin workshop
    Blossman Gas
    Website: www.blossmangas.com/

    The Complete Guide to Building Log Homes
    ISBN: 0806974869
    Author: Monte Burch, Richard J. Meyer, Lloyd P. Birmingham
    Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
    Website: www.sterlingpub.com

    The Cabin: Inspiration for the Classic American Getaway
    Model: 0879056711
    Author: Dale Mulfinger, Susan E. Davis
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

    Small Log Homes: Storybook Plans and Advice
    ISBN: 1586850431
    Author: Robbin Obomsawin
    Gibbs Smith Publishing
    Website: www.gibbs-smith.com

    Inside Log Homes: The Art & Spirit of Home Planning and Decor
    Model: 087905963X
    Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede, et al
    Gibbs Smith Publishing
    Website: www.gibbs-smith.com

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