Following the installation of cabinets and countertops, the next phase of the log-cabin interior project involves window trim and other trim details. Some of the main objectives will be to disguise elements that have an unfinished look: insulation around the windows, rough edges, overhangs and gaps where the drywall meets the log wall.
Pine Crown Molding
- Edges of pine 1x4s are beveled (figure A) to form a strip that will cover the gap at the bottom edge of the sloped-ceiling drywall, where it meets the log wall. The beveled strip serves as a crown molding.
- Measurements are taken for the first section of crown molding. The section of wood strip is then held in place and fastened with finish nails using an air-powered nail gun (figure B).
- The uneven surface of the log makes attaching the strip -- and keeping it straight -- a challenge. The air-powered nailer makes it possible to use one hand to hold the strip in place while the other wields the nailer.
- The process is repeated for the other sections of molding until the entire length of wall is finished.
Rustic Log-Siding Shelf Another exposed edge of drywall is cleverly hidden with a rustic shelf made of log siding.
- Two countersunk holes are driven in each of the four precut shelf brackets (figure C).
- The carpenters use a square to align each bracket, then attach each one to the log wall by drilling a pilot hole and securing the bracket to the log with 3" hexhead screws (figure D).
- With two brackets attached to the wall, the carpenters lift the first section of cut siding into position (figure E) and secure it to the brackets at either end using trim screws.
- The carpenters repeat the process for the section at the other end of the wall. Then, with the two end sections complete, they take measurement of the distance between the first two shelves (figure F) and cut the center section of log siding to length.
- The center section of shelving is cut so that it fits snugly between the first two (figure G). It's secured in position with a few more finish screws.
- To disguise the screw holes, wooden plugs are carefully tapped into the holes using a trim hammer (figure H).
- Red paint is applied to the wooden plugs so that they match the color of the wood brackets.
- The finished log-siding shelf will not only hide the rough seam between the log and drywall, it will also make an ideal place to display various collectibles and decorative items that are in keeping with the rustic motif of the cabin.
Window Trim Foam insulation was used to seal out the elements in the gaps around the windows. Where there are gaps in the foam insulation, host Bruce Johnson presses bits of fiberglass insulation into them with a piece of scrap wood. Once the seal is complete, the process of concealing the gap and insulation with wood trim is begun.
- The carpenters begin by removing excess foam insulation from around the window using a utility knife (figure I). Any gaps are filled with bits of fiberglass insulation.
- Pine filler strips are nailed to all four sides of the window with an air-powered nailer. The strips bring the window edges up to the same level as the log walls ( figure J).
- With the filler strips attached, measurements are taken and sections of prepainted window trim are cut to length with a sliding compound miter saw.
- Each cut section of trim is held in place while the carpenter checks his level, then secures the trim with finish nails (figure K). The top piece rests on the two side rails.
Kitchen Wall Trim The end of the short, perpendicular section of kitchen wall is masked by three sections of wood that are miter-cut along their edges. These bevel-cut pieces are used to wrap around the end of the wall to give the appearance of a solid wood post.
- The strips are cut with a table saw to create beveled edges cut at a 45-degree angle.
- The carpenter then nails a temporary piece of wood along the top surface of the perpendicular wall (figure L) to serve as a guide for installation of the trim pieces.
- The first two pieces of trim -- the two side pieces -- are attached to the sides of the wall with finish nails (figure M).
- The end board is bevel-cut on both edges. It is positioned on the end section of the wall, clamped in position using quick-release bar clamps and secured with finish nails (figure N).
- Two strips of cedar are attached along the top edge of the wall -- one on either side -- to conceal the drywall edge. Finally, the carpenter removes the temporary top board and replaces it with one cut to fit precisely along the length of the top of the wall (figure O).
- With all of the trim pieces in place, the nail holes are disguised with tinted wood putty that matches the color of the wood.
- The finished product gives the appearance of a wooden post attached at the end of the drywall section. Since this short wall is in close proximity to the area where the refrigerator will be installed, the wooden corner piece will withstand abuse from bumps and knocks better than bare drywall would.
The next phase in the log-cabin interior project will be installation of hickory hardwood flooring.
RESOURCES :
Log Home Repair and Restoration Services
Log Home Repair and Restoration Services
Website: www.loghomerepair.com
The Complete Guide to Building Log Homes
ISBN: 0806974869
Author: Monte Burch, Richard J. Meyer, Lloyd P. Birmingham
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com
Small Log Homes: Storybook Plans and Advice
ISBN: 1586850431
Author: Robbin Obomsawin
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
Inside Log Homes: The Art & Spirit of Home Planning and Decor
Model: 087905963X
Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede, et al
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
Special thanks for DIY's Log Cabin Interiors workshop
Formica Corp.
10155 Reading Rd.
Cincinnati, OH 45241
Toll-free: 800-FORMICA (800-367-6422)
Fax: 513-786-3024
Website: www.formica.com
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