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  • Log-Cabin Master-Bath Tile Floor
  • From "Log Cabin Interiors"
    episode LCI-102
    advertisement

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    The tile floor in the bathroom provides a nice accent to the hardwood floors in the rest of the cabin and is resistant to water seepage.

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    The tile floor in the bathroom provides a nice accent to the hardwood floors in the rest of the cabin and is resistant to water seepage.

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    Figure K

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    Figure L

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    The grout joint refers to the distance between tiles. Larger tiles require larger grout joints.

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    Since the grout joint for our floor was 1/2", pieces of 1/2" wood scraps were use as spacers to simplify layout of the tiles.

    Tile -- rather than hardwood flooring -- is used in the bathroom and laundry room of the log cabin.

    The tile (figure A) offers better protection against water and moisture, and it makes for a nice visual contrast with the wood used throughout the rest of the cabin.

    The best foundation for a tile floor is a half-inch cement board. Host Bruce Johnson glues the cement board to the subfloor using a thick adhesive. He trowels on the adhesive (figure B), positions the section of cement board in place and secures it to the subfloor with screws -- placed about 8" apart (figure C) -- for extra holding power.

    To cut the individual sections of cement board, he first marks and scores the fiberglass mesh on the top the cement board (figure D), then snaps off the section he'll be using. One more pass with a utility knife will cut the fiberglass mesh on the underside of the board and separate the piece.

    • Before beginning to lay tile, start with a "dry layout" to get a good idea about accurate placement of the tiles (figure E). This will help avoid having any partial tiles in the doorway.

    • Measure span of the tiles in the doorway (figure F), then transfer that measurement to mark the span at what will be the end of the row -- the cement board where it fits flush against the tub. Then use a chalk line to snap a line, parallel to the wall, to serve as a guide for laying out the first section of tiles.

    • Lay out a row of evenly spaced tiles along the chalk line from the edge of the doorway to the tub. Unless you're lucky enough to get an exact fit, the last tile in each row (where the row meets the tub) will need to be cut to fit. An electric wet saw is used to cut each end tile for a precise fit (figure G).

    • The electric wet saw can cut through hardened clay tiles quickly and easily, using a constant stream of water to prevent the blade from overheating.

    • Before the installation of tile begins, determine the width of the grout joint (the width of the grout between adjacent tiles). As a rule of thumb, larger tiles require wider joints. For our bathroom floor, a 1/2" joint was used between each tile. To simplify layout, lengths of 1/2" scrap wood were used as spacers between tiles.

    • In the laundry room, the smaller tiles called for a smaller grout joint of 3/8".

    • After mixing the adhesive mastic, Johnson spreads it on a section of the cement board using the smooth edge of the trowel (figure H). He then flips the trowel over and uses the notched edge to obtain an even layer of adhesive over the entire section.

    • Use the end of the trowel apply adhesive to the back of each tile (figure I). The extra mastic helps ensure a strong bond between the tile and the floor. After applying the adhesive to each tile, position it in place.

    • When setting each tile in place, work it back and forth to force the mastic layer into the cement board and the rough back surface of the tile.

    • Continue spreading mastic and placing the tiles, working on two or three rows at a time. Use the chalk line snapped earlier as a guide and the wooden spacers to ensure uniform distance between the tiles (figure J).

    • After the tiles are placed and the mastic is dried, begin spreading grout across the floor (figure K), making certain to get grout between each tile. Grout is applied using a specialized rubber trowel known as a float.

    • As the grout begins to dry, begin removing the excess with a damp sponge (figure L). Make several passes with the sponge to remove all of the excess.

    • Wait about 15 minutes, then remove the final layer of haze from the tile surface using a clean, damp sponge.


    RESOURCES :

    Log Home Repair and Restoration Services
    Log Home Repair and Restoration Services
    Website: www.loghomerepair.com

    The Complete Guide to Building Log Homes
    ISBN: 0806974869
    Author: Monte Burch, Richard J. Meyer, Lloyd P. Birmingham
    Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
    Website: www.sterlingpub.com

    Small Log Homes: Storybook Plans and Advice
    ISBN: 1586850431
    Author: Robbin Obomsawin
    Gibbs Smith Publishing
    Website: www.gibbs-smith.com

    Inside Log Homes: The Art & Spirit of Home Planning and Decor
    Model: 087905963X
    Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede, et al
    Gibbs Smith Publishing
    Website: www.gibbs-smith.com

    Special thanks for DIY's Log Cabin Interiors workshop
    Formica Corp.
    10155 Reading Rd.
    Cincinnati, OH 45241
    Toll-free: 800-FORMICA (800-367-6422)
    Fax: 513-786-3024
    Website: www.formica.com

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