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  • Pull-Down Loft Stairs, Loft Beam and Railing
  • From "Log Cabin Interiors"
    episode LCI-101
    advertisement

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    The pull-down stairs come out of the box already preassembled and ready for installation.

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    The precut opening for installation of the pull-down stairs.

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    Placing the assembly in the precut opening.

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure J

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    Figure K

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    Figure L

    Pull-Down Loft Stairs

    The log cabin shown in this workshop features an upstairs storage loft. In this segment, pull-down attic stairs are installed to provide access to the loft. In addition, a faux beam is installed at the edge of the loft to conceal the exposed rafter, and a log railing is added.

    • The pull-down stairs come as a preassembled kit, ready to be installed. Once removed from the packing, the assembly is lowered into the rough opening cut in the ceiling, where it rests on a temporary pair of wood supports (figure A).




    • The carpenters use wood shims to fill the gap between the stair assembly and the rough opening. The frame of the stair assembly is anchored to the rafters using several 3" wood screws (figure B).




    • With the assembly installed in the opening, the stairs can be lowered to test for proper fit and operation. Since the hardwood floor has not been put down, scraps of 1/2" plywood are used to act as spacers beneath the legs of the stairs to approximate the height of the finished floor. Measurements are taken, and the workers us a reciprocating saw to cut off the unneeded portion of the stair legs.




    • Once the legs have been cut to the proper length, rubber-lined feet slip over the ends of the legs (figure C). The rubber pads will later protect the finished floor from damage when the stairs are lowered. The feet are held in place with bolts and washers on either side of the ladder.




    • The completed stairs, when lowered, offer a sturdy and exact fit (figure D ).






    Faux Loft Beam

    A faux beam is fashioned to mask the rafter at the edge of the loft that's exposed above the living room. Host Bruce Johnson makes a quick sketch to show the carpenters how he wants pieces of log siding cut to imitate a log beam.

    • A pine 1x6 is first nailed at the edge of the loft floor to serve as a guide for installing the faux beam.




    • A table saw is used to make the first cut in the siding (figure E), and a saber saw is used to make subsequent cuts to create a custom fit.




    • By carefully cutting out the curved profile of the log siding in the drywall ceiling, the carpenters can conceal the ends of the siding behind the drywall (figure F).




    • Since the "beam" is, in fact, just a section of siding, it can be held in place with just a few finish nails anchoring it to the exposed rafter (figure G) .




    • The first outside section is held and secured in place (figure H), followed by the other outer section, and finally the center section (figure I).






    Loft Railing

    For safety, a railing is installed at the edge of the loft to prevent anyone from falling off the edge. A natural-log railing is constructed to blend with the rustic log look of the cabin.

    • The parts of the railing are laid out and assembled on the loft floor. Then the carpenters take measurements to determine where to drill holes in the log posts for securing either end of the railing tenons. Once the holes have been drilled in the posts, the tenons are seated. The fit in the drilled holes is snug, and the assembly is firmed up with a few carefully placed taps of a hammer.


    • The railing is secured to the loft floor, along the edge of the loft, with iron L-brackets. The carpenters measure and mark the locations where the brackets will attach to the floor. They then rout grooves at the base of each post to accommodate the brackets (figure J), then place and secure the metal bracket in the post groove.


    • A series of #10 screws installed through the metal brackets and into the post and floor secures the railing to the loft floor. Several more screws are installed through the posts themselves, extending into the floor, for added stability.


    • Because the railing assembly extends at each end out to the angled cabin ceiling, beneath the sloped ceiling each log rail and spindle must be hand-fitted to lie snugly between the bottom post and the ceiling nailer (figure K).


    • Once the entire structure has been assembled and secured, the carpenters cut off any excess height from the upright posts.


    • They then complete the railing project by sanding the log surfaces and removing any rough spots (figure L).



    In the next phase of Log Cabin Interiors, work begins on the tile floor in the bathroom and laundry room, as well as on installation of kitchen and bathroom cabinets.


    RESOURCES :

    Log Home Repair and Restoration Services
    Log Home Repair and Restoration Services
    Website: www.loghomerepair.com

    The Complete Guide to Building Log Homes
    ISBN: 0806974869
    Author: Monte Burch, Richard J. Meyer, Lloyd P. Birmingham
    Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
    Website: www.sterlingpub.com

    Small Log Homes: Storybook Plans and Advice
    ISBN: 1586850431
    Author: Robbin Obomsawin
    Gibbs Smith Publishing
    Website: www.gibbs-smith.com

    Inside Log Homes: The Art & Spirit of Home Planning and Decor
    Model: 087905963X
    Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede, et al
    Gibbs Smith Publishing
    Website: www.gibbs-smith.com

    Special thanks for DIY's Log Cabin Interiors workshop
    Formica Corp.
    10155 Reading Rd.
    Cincinnati, OH 45241
    Toll-free: 800-FORMICA (800-367-6422)
    Fax: 513-786-3024
    Website: www.formica.com

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