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  • Sanding and Finishing Interior Log Walls
  • From "Log Cabin Interiors"
    episode LCI-101
    advertisement

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    A lightweight palm sander is the ideal tool for smoothing and preparing interior log walls for application of a protective wood finish. Avoid using a belt sander or similar power sander that can remove too much wood and mar the natural surface.

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    If paint and finish fumes bother you, consider using a respirator. Don't confuse a respirator (left) -- which helps remove chemical fumes -- with a particle mask (right). The particle mask removes only dust and other airborne particulate matter.

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Tung oil provides a natural, hand-rubbed appearance for log walls.

    Prepping the Wood Surfaces

    The inside of the log walls in your cabin will require some detail work. There will likely be some rough spots and minor damage to the wood resulting from earlier construction and temporary reinforcement. The wood surfaces will therefore need some sanding. Avoid using a belt sander for this, as this tool is too powerful and can remove too much of the wood surface.

    A lightweight palm sander is a much better tool for the job. Use the palm sander with 120-grit sandpaper to carefully remove rough spots, scratches, scuffs and marks from the wood surface. Use caution not to oversand a particular spot, as this may leave a lighter area of wood.

    • Nail holes, left behind when the temporary wall braces were removed, can be filled with wood filler (figure A). Mound the filler slightly above the surface to allow for some shrinkage as it dries. Once it has hardened, the wood filler can be sanded smooth using a palm sander.


    • Remove stray traces of joint compound with a scraper or putty knife (figure B). Carefully scrape off the heaviest concentration with the blade, then sand away the remaining compound. Wipe away any residue using a damp sponge.


    • Remove water stains or mildew from wood surface by lightly brushing on a coat household bleach (figure C) and letting it dry. The results of this technique can sometimes be quite dramatic.


    • Natural cracks in the logs (figure D) should not be filled with wood filler. These cracks are a part of the natural appearance of the wood and are usually less than a quarter-inch deep. They will not let cold air in.


    • With a pair of diagonal pliers, remove any staples left behind from protective plastic used during painting. Use a thin scrap of wood to protect the log from being damaged by the tip of pliers (figure E).





    Applying Wood Finish

    For our cabin, we applied oil-based finishes to the insides of the log walls. Tung oil (for the living room and bedroom and polyurethane varnish (for the bathroom and laundry room) serve to protect the wood and to bring out the natural colors and grain. These finishes also make the logs much easier to clean. Dust and fingerprints can be wiped right off the finished surfaces.

    Safety Precautions: Whenever working with chemical wood-finishes, make certain that your work area is adequately ventilated. Place a fan in an open window to provide cross-ventilation and bring in fresh air. Wear a long-sleeved shirt and protective rubber gloves; use safety glasses to protect your eyes from splattered chemicals. If the fumes bother you, consider using a respirator mask.

    • Before applying finish, remove any dust, debris or insulation that may have settled on the wood surfaces or in the wood cracks. A soft-bristle vacuum-cleaner attachment (figure F) works ideally for this.


    • Tung oil is the best finish for most log-wall interiors. It's thinner than conventional varnish, so it penetrates deep into the pores of the wood. It provides a hand-rubbed appearance that looks best for log walls.


    • Tung oil can be applied with a cloth, but a wide brush works well also. Brush on the finish (figure G), then let it dry for about five minutes. Once it begins to dry, wipe any excess finish from the wood surface using a clean cloth.


    • In bathrooms and laundry rooms, where wood surfaces are more likely to come into contact with water, use a polyurethane varnish for extra protection. Stir the polyurethane varnish thoroughly (figure H), using a figure-8 stirring pattern, to mix any ingredients that may have settled to the bottom.


    • Using a high-quality natural-bristle brush, apply a coat of polyurethane to the wood. Use the spring in the bristles to work the finish into the pores of the wood. For professional-looking results, always brush in the direction of the wood's grain.


    • To help simplify application of finish to moldings and trim, brush on the finish with the pieces resting on sawhorses or a workbench (figure I). It's easier to brush on in this way than it would be after the pieces have been installed.



    Safety Alert: Never throw away rags that have been soaked with oil or oil-based finishes. They may catch fire from spontaneous combustion. Dispose of spent rags by placing them in a sealable can, pouring water over them, then sealing the lid on the can.


    RESOURCES :

    Log Home Repair and Restoration Services
    Log Home Repair and Restoration Services
    Website: www.loghomerepair.com

    The Complete Guide to Building Log Homes
    ISBN: 0806974869
    Author: Monte Burch, Richard J. Meyer, Lloyd P. Birmingham
    Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
    Website: www.sterlingpub.com

    Small Log Homes: Storybook Plans and Advice
    ISBN: 1586850431
    Author: Robbin Obomsawin
    Gibbs Smith Publishing
    Website: www.gibbs-smith.com

    Inside Log Homes: The Art & Spirit of Home Planning and Decor
    Model: 087905963X
    Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede, et al
    Gibbs Smith Publishing
    Website: www.gibbs-smith.com

    Special thanks for DIY's Log Cabin Interiors workshop
    Formica Corp.
    10155 Reading Rd.
    Cincinnati, OH 45241
    Toll-free: 800-FORMICA (800-367-6422)
    Fax: 513-786-3024
    Website: www.formica.com

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