Ceiling Joists With the exterior walls complete, and the interior partition walls up, work can begin on installing the ceiling joists over the bathroom and bedroom. The ceiling joists will later support the drywall. The joists are constructed from 2x6 boards. They are prepared for installation by cutting a notch at one end of each 2x6 joist so the corner of the board won't strike the underside of the roof (figure A). The joists are set 24" apart and secured using a power nailer (figure B). Scraps of 2x4 are used for spacers to keep the joists positioned properly as they're nailed in place (figure C). The carpenters keep repeating this process until the ceiling joists are complete. Porch Beams and Supports As the ceiling structure nears completion, work can begin on the framework for the covered front porch. Notches are cut in the top row of logs in order to tie each of the porch beams into the rest of the cabin. Two side beams extend outward from the front log wall of the house (figure D). It takes two crew members to carry each beam up and hold it in place while, using 2x4s, the others build a temporary brace to hold it up. Even at this early stage, it's important that the beam be adjusted so that it's perfectly level (figure E). A notch is cut in the ends of the two beams that will span the front porch (figure F). The carpenters stretch a string across the front porch so they can measure and determine the exact height of each of the four posts (figure G). Three temporary posts are cut to hold up the beams. The supports are shimmed and straightened until the beam is in line with the string, then the crew uses horizontal bracing to hold the beams in place (figure H). The crew then drills a pilot hole and installs a 10" lag screw to pin the side and front beams together where they overlap. The permanent posts that will support the beams will be secured to the concrete porch-pad using metal post-brackets. With a metal bracket held in place as a guide, a 1/2" hole is drilled in the front corner of the porch for the first bracket (figure I). Each hole is cleaned out with a blast of air, then epoxy is injected into the hole to fix the bolt that will anchor the bracket in place. With the bolt secured, the bracket is replaced and secured using a washer and nut. The post slides over the metal brackets (figure J), where it will be held secure and remain dry. The process is repeated for the other three posts. With all four posts in place (figure K), the carpenters can go to work on the rafters and the rest of the roof. Tip: The posts and other wood components of the house exterior may get some dents, scuffs or scratches during the construction and installation process. There's really no way to completely prevent this sort of minor damage. Later, once the major elements are installed and the construction project is nearing completion, you can go back and use a power sander with 120-grit paper to sand off any marks or scuffs that bother you. Since the wood used in the beams and support-posts is not pressure-treated wood, you'll probably want to protect it from the rain and the sun. Once you've sanded it, come back and give it two coats of a clear exterior finish.
RESOURCES :
Log Homes Made Easy: Contracting and Building Your Own Log Home
Model: 0811728471
Author: Jim Cooper
Stackpole Books
Website: www.stackpolebooks.com
Hands-On Log Homes
ISBN: 0879058056
Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
American Log Homes
ISBN: 0879054581
Author: Arthur Thiede, Cindy Teipner
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
Inside Log Homes: The Art & Spirit of Home Planning and Decor
Model: 087905963X
Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede, et al
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
The Log Home Book: Design, Past and Present
Model: 0879056711
Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede, Arthur Thiede, et al
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
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