With the excavation, footing and foundation all complete, and the log-cabin materials all delivered to the site, work can get under way on building a floor system.
The first step is to install a metal termite shield (figure A) before the carpenters attach the first boards to the concrete foundation. For the termite shield, 10-foot lengths of galvanized sheet metal are used. Each sheet has a slight crimp along the length of the inside edge. This forms a metal barrier and overhang that will prevent termites from building their mud tunnels up the inside of the foundation and into the wooden walls. The carpenters then attach the wooden sill-plates (figure B) to the concrete blocks using heavy-duty nuts and washers. These fasteners fit perfectly onto the bolts the block-masons had set earlier in the wet concrete. Since the sill plate is in direct contact with the foundation and with the metal termite shield, the building code requires that it be made with water-resistant, pressure-treated pine. The six concrete-block columns that the masons constructed -- four in the middle and one at either end of the foundation -- will support the center beam that the carpenters build on-site (figure C). The carpenters use standard pine two-by-eights nailed together to form a six-inch by eight-inch bead. The center beam will support the floor joists and, ultimately, the floor itself. The center beam rests on blocks of pressure-treated pine, which are also protects from termites using metal shields. The crew takes care to make sure that the joints between boards are located directly over the column and that the joints are staggered to avoid creating any weak spots in the beam. With the beam completed, the carpenters immediately begin laying out the two-by-eight floor joists (figure D). The joists are spaced at 16 inches apart and are supported in the middle of the house by the center beam. On the outside, the joists rest on the sill plate and are secured by a double band of two-by-eights (figure E). To prevent the floor joists from twisting, the carpenters nail short lengths of two-by-eights -- called bridging -- between each of them (figure F). Some kits come with metal bracing, but wooden bridging makes the floor more rigid, which means fewer squeaks. With the bridging complete and the floor joists secured to the sill-plate and foundation, the crew begins dropping four-by -eight sheets of 3/4-inch particleboard in place to create the subfloor. Even before the first nail is driven, each sheet of particleboard is attached to the joists with a bead of construction adhesive on each joist (figure G). Using a combination of adhesive and nails makes for a stable floor. The carpenter drives a stabilizing nail into each corner before quickly moving on to the next sheet. Once the first row of particleboard is secured, the crew switches to an air-powered nailer to speed up the process (figure H). Though some purists prefer the old-fashioned method of hammer and nail, the powered nailer drastically reduces the work time for this stage. Installation of the last piece of sheeting marks the end of the first phase in this construction project. The foundation is complete and the crew has built us a solid floor system consisting of joists, bridging and the subfloor. The next step is construction of the exterior log walls -- the element that gives this project its defining look. Decorative Stone-Facing for the Foundation A concrete-block foundation like the one used on this cabin is strong and reliable but doesn't blend well visually with the timeworn and rustic look of a log cabin. To provide a more appropriate look, the cabin foundation is faced with river stone. This look is authentic since, in earlier times, river stones were actually used to hand-build a foundation. In the case of a modern-era log cabin, the rock facing provides an appealing cosmetic appearance while adding some support to the flooring system. This phase of the project can be started as soon as the concrete foundation is complete and the mortar between the blocks has dried. Provided there's adequate manpower, it can be done concurrently with the construction of the flooring system. The rocks are placed individually by hand (figure I), and there's an art to placing them so that they fit together to create a unified look. While the facing is being assembled, the mortar is kept at a fairly loose consistency to make it easy to work with, but not so loose as to be runny. The proper consistency can be likened to snow that would be used to create snowballs. Mortar is packed in on top of each row of rocks so that it's about five inches deep from front to back. Stones are then nestled carefully into the loose mortar. When starting out on the first few rows, it may be helpful to use a tape measure to ensure a uniform thickness for the stone facing. As work proceeds, it becomes easier to gauge the thickness and positioning of stones simply by eyeballing. Wherever necessary, pack additional mortar between stones to fill in any spaces and cavities (figure J). Though it may not seem stable when the mortar is still wet and loose, the wall facing will become sturdy as the mortar dries.
RESOURCES :
Log Home Repair and Restoration Services
Log Home Repair and Restoration Services
Website: www.loghomerepair.com
Special Thanks for DIY Build a Log Cabin workshop
Blossman Gas
Website: www.blossmangas.com/
Propane
Propane
Washington, DC Phone: 202-452-8975
Fax: 202-452-9054
Website: www.propanecouncil.org/
The Complete Guide to Building Log Homes
ISBN: 0806974869
Author: Monte Burch, Richard J. Meyer, Lloyd P. Birmingham
Sterling Publishing Co. Inc.
Website: www.sterlingpub.com
Log Homes Made Easy: Contracting and Building Your Own Log Home
Model: 0811728471
Author: Jim Cooper
Stackpole Books
Website: www.stackpolebooks.com
The Cabin: Inspiration for the Classic American Getaway
Model: 0879056711
Author: Dale Mulfinger, Susan E. Davis
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Hands-On Log Homes
ISBN: 0879058056
Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
American Log Homes
ISBN: 0879054581
Author: Arthur Thiede, Cindy Teipner
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
The Craft of Modular Post & Beam: Building Log and Timber Homes Affordably
Model: 0881791318
Author: James Mitchell
Heritage House/Hartley & Marks
Website: www.heritagehouse.ca/hartleymarks/hartleymarks.html
Small Log Homes: Storybook Plans and Advice
ISBN: 1586850431
Author: Robbin Obomsawin
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
Log Spirit
ISBN: 0879059257
Author: Linda Arms White
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
Inside Log Homes: The Art & Spirit of Home Planning and Decor
Model: 087905963X
Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede, et al
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
The Log Home Book: Design, Past and Present
Model: 0879056711
Author: Cindy Teipner Thiede, Arthur Thiede, et al
Gibbs Smith Publishing
Website: www.gibbs-smith.com
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