| Build a Deck: Completing the Deck |
From "Build a Deck"
episode BDK-104 |
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Note: Click here for a materials list and complete instructions without images.
Materials: 2 x 6 boards (pressure-treated pine)
2 x 2 boards (pressure-treated pine)
2 x 8 boards (pressure-treated pine)
2 x 12 boards (pressure-treated pine)
2 x 8 boards (pressure-treated pine)
4 x 4 posts (pressure-treated pine)
6 x 6 posts (pressure-treated pine)
Carriage bolts and nuts
Post anchors
Galvanized 3" decking screws
Concrete mix for footers (if applicable)
Roll of flashing Tools Needed: Circular saw
Power drill
Jigsaw
Reciprocating saw
Pneumatic Nail Gun kit (available at rental store)
Galvanized deck screws
Level
Framing square
Speed square
Chalk line
Tape Measure
Adjustable wrench
Safety goggles, gloves and mask
Masonry drill bit
Hammer
Utility knife Before You Start: It's important to draw up a set of plans. This will help also in determining the amount of materials needed. Know Your Deck Terminology - Foundation -- When building a deck, it's always from the ground up, which means starting with a foundation. For this particular project, the crew built the deck from an existing patio. In most cases, the foundation is either a concrete pad or post installed on footers.
- Support Posts -- On top of the foundation, 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 vertical posts are installed to support the weight of the deck. These support posts are commonly placed four to six feet apart.
- Beams -- Horizontal boards -- or beams -- are attached to the post to help carry the weight and anchor the support posts. (2 x 8, 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 boards can be used for horizontal beams.)
- Joists -- Typically 2 x 8 boards that are installed perpendicular and between beams to help distribute weight and hold up the decking boards. Joists are usually installed 16 or 24 inches apart. Joists allow the use of decking boards.
- Decking -- The boards that span the area over the joists and form the deck floor.
- Handrails -- The horizontal boards that provide safety. Handrails can also enhance the beauty of any deck.
- Balusters -- The vertical boards that attach to the handrails. Sometimes called spindles. Balusters help to increase safety and can add to the beauty of the project as well.
- Staircase Landing -- Usually part of the decking plan.
- Stair Stringers -- The boards that support stairs.
- Treads -- The top boards on a stair.
The last episode ended by installing the stair stringers, and now it's time to complete the project! - Installing Stair Treads -- Install the stair treads using 2 x 6 boards cut to length. Place the good boards in front of the step and boards with imperfections (figure A) toward the back of the step. Place two screws through each tread and into the corresponding stringer.
- Notching Out Corner Handrail Post (figure B is the illustration and figure C is the actual notched post) -- Figure the height of the handrail post (in our case it is 36") and subtract 1-1/2" for the top cap rail. Then add 9" for the amount that will bolt into the deck beam. Cut the post to the measured length. Measure 1-1/2" on the end of the post and place a mark 9" long. Flip the post over 180 degrees and make the same mark. Using a circular saw set at 2" depth, saw the notch out of the handrail post. Use a wood chisel to clear out any excess wood.
Note: Be sure to check with you local building-codes inspector to see that you have the proper height for the railing. - Installing the Corner Handrail Post -- Fit post into place and check for level and plumb. Drill two holes in each side all the way through the beam and install two carriage bolts on either side (figure D). Tighten down the nuts on the carriage bolts.
- Installing Middle Handrail Post -- Measure from the end post to the corner post and divide by 2. This is the location for the middle handrail post. (If the span is longer than 8 feet apart, divide the total span by 3 to allow for an extra handrail post.) Check with the local building permit office for code restrictions. Trace an outline where the post will go and for a guide for cutting out the decking with the jigsaw.
- Measure and mark the middle handrail post for length and for notching out. Using a circular saw, notch out the middle handrail post (figure E). Then, using a jigsaw, notch out the decking where the post will be installed. Fit post into place and check for level and plumb. Drill two holes (figure F) in each side all the way through the beam and install two carriage bolts on either side. Tighten down the nuts on the carriage bolts.
- Installing Hand Railings and Balusters -- Figure the height of each baluster by taking the height of the handrail posts (36") and subtract 3-1/2" + 1-1/2" + 1-1/2" + 1-1/2". So, 36" - 8" = 28". This is the height of each baluster.
Tip: Cut balusters by making a saw stop block (figure G). Measure from the saw blade out to 28" and screw down a scrap piece of lumber at that mark. - Install 2 x 4 blocks to each side of the handrail posts for support.
- Cut two pieces of 2 x 4 the length of the span between posts. One will be the top rail, the other will be the bottom rail. Install balusters every 3-3/4" apart (check with local building code requirements). Cut a scrap piece of lumber 3-3/4" long to use as a stop guide when installing balusters. Screw one screw into 2 x 4 and into baluster. Flip over the rail section and repeat the process on the other side. Screw each end of the railing section into the top of each post and into the block at the bottom (figure H). After all of the railing sections have been installed, measure and cut a 2 x 6 to length for the finished cap rail. Make a 45-degree cut at any spices for a finished look.
Note: Be sure to take separate measurements for each handrails section because even if the plans call for the rails to have the same length, there could be slight variations. - When all the railings are up, you'll want to add a 2 x 6 board as a rail cap, which will be perfect for setting your drinks on while lounging on the new deck. It's actually one long piece (remember, you started with 16' pieces of lumber), so you'll be able to do this without any splicing. Simply drill in some decking screws, and be sure to create a nice 45-degree corner (figure I) for a nice look.
- Staircase Railing Installation -- Repeat above handrail steps, including a 2 x 6 rail cap. Be sure to notch the final step and screw it down into place (figure J).
- Deck Sealing and Staining -- Pressure treated pine usually comes from the home center wet, so it will take some time to dry out before water sealer or stains can be applied. Check with the home center or the stain manufacturer for recommended wait periods. Apply water sealer (or stain) with a paint roller or brush or vegetable sprayer. Coat all of the surfaces liberally.
- Deck Maintenance -- At least once a year, inspect the deck underneath for loose screws or rotting boards, excess moisture, or insect damage. Also, clean the deck at least once a year with a deck brightener or a solution of one part bleach to three parts water.
RESOURCES :
The Home Depot Information
To locate the Home Depot store nearest you, click here.
The Home Depot U.S.A. Inc.
Website: www.homedepot.com
The Complete Guide to Building Decks (Black & Decker Home Improvement Library)
ISBN: 0865734275
Author: Editors of Creative Publishing International
Order this title from Amazon.com.
Creative Publishing International, Inc.
Website: www.creativepub.com
Building a Deck: Expert Advice From Start to Finish (Taunton's Build Like a Pro)
ISBN: 1561584797
Author: Scott Schuttner
Order this title from Amazon.com.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
GUESTS :
Rob Vannoy
2008 Durham Rd.
Rising Fawn, GA 30738
Phone: 706-398-0616
Fax: 706-398-0917
Part owner
Graham Vannoy Construction Company
Hamilton Brock
975 Highway 157
Lookout Mountain, GA 30750
Phone: 706-398-0616
Graham Vannoy Builders
Sid Forrester
Senior Carpenter
Graham Vannoy Construction Company
See above for contact info
| ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: | | Build a Deck: Completing the Deck |
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