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  • Build a Deck: Installing the Decking
  • From "Build a Deck"
    episode BDK-103
    advertisement

    Click here to view a larger image.

    In this five-part workshop, Building a Deck host Jeff Wilson will show you how to build a beautiful deck step by step, the DIY way!

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    Foundation

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    Support Posts

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    Beams

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    Joists

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    Decking

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    Handrails

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    Balusters

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    Staircase Landing

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    Stair Stringers

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    Treads

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure J

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    Figure K


    Note: Click here for a materials list and complete instructions without images.

    Materials:

    2 x 6 boards (pressure-treated pine)
    2 x 2 boards (pressure-treated pine)
    2 x 8 boards (pressure-treated pine)
    2 x 12 boards (pressure-treated pine)
    2 x 8 boards (pressure-treated pine)
    4 x 4 posts (pressure-treated pine)
    6 x 6 posts (pressure-treated pine)
    Carriage bolts and nuts
    Post anchors
    Galvanized 3" decking screws
    Concrete mix for footers (if applicable)
    Roll of flashing

    Tools Needed:

    Circular saw
    Power drill
    Jigsaw
    Reciprocating saw
    Pneumatic Nail Gun kit (available at rental store)
    Galvanized deck screws
    Level
    Framing square
    Speed square
    Chalk line
    Tape Measure
    Adjustable wrench
    Safety goggles, gloves and mask
    Masonry drill bit
    Hammer
    Utility knife

    Before You Start: It's important to draw up a set of plans. This will help also in determining the amount of materials needed.

    Know Your Deck Terminology

    • Foundation -- When building a deck, it's always from the ground up, which means starting with a foundation. For this particular project, the crew built the deck from an existing patio. In most cases, the foundation is either a concrete pad or post installed on footers.

    • Support Posts -- On top of the foundation, 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 vertical posts are installed to support the weight of the deck. These support posts are commonly placed four to six feet apart.

    • Beams -- Horizontal boards -- or beams -- are attached to the post to help carry the weight and anchor the support posts. (2 x 8, 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 boards can be used for horizontal beams.)

    • Joists -- Typically 2 x 8 boards that are installed perpendicular and between beams to help distribute weight and hold up the decking boards. Joists are usually installed 16 or 24 inches apart. Joists allow the use of decking boards.

    • Decking -- The boards that span the area over the joists and form the deck floor.

    • Handrails -- The horizontal boards that provide safety. Handrails can also enhance the beauty of any deck.

    • Balusters -- The vertical boards that attach to the handrails. Sometimes called spindles. Balusters help to increase safety and can add to the beauty of the project as well.

    • Staircase Landing -- Usually part of the decking plan.

    • Stair Stringers -- The boards that support stairs.

    • Treads -- The top boards on a stair.

    Completing the Decking and Landing

    We started the decking in the last episode, now it's time to complete that job along with building the staircase and installing the stringers!

    1. Finish laying the decking material. Remember to splice boards (figure A) every third or fourth run and don't splice all of them along the same joist line.

    2. Measure and notch out a support post that will attach to the side of the deck. Level and plumb the notched out post and mark around the base of the anchor. Drill to the depth of the anchor bolt in concrete, hammer the bolt into place and tighten the nut securely.

    3. Replace the anchor cap, making sure the outer marks of the anchor base still line up. Position post into place, check for level and plumb, and drive nails into the anchor and post. Drill two holes for carriage bolts into post and beam (figure B), hammer in the bolts and tighten the nuts down securely.

    4. Measure the outer beam of the staircase landing and nail it to the sill board attached to the house foundation. Then nail the crossbeam to the outer beam and the support post (figure C).

      Note: The outer beams on the staircase landing are put together the same way as the beams on the main deck.

    5. Temporarily support the structure with a board until everything is level. Once everything is level, take a measurement from the top of the post anchor to the bottom of the outer beam. Using a reciprocating saw, notch out support post the width of the outer beam (figure D) and saw the excess off the end of the post.

      Tip: To make sure your anchor hole is deep enough for the anchor bolt, simply take a look at the drill bit to see how far up the concrete powder appears (figure E). That should be the proper length.

    6. Notch out and install the outer post the same way as the first post. Install the remaining joists 16" on center (16" apart). Make sure the top of the joists are flush with the top of the beams. This will allow for maximum level nailing surface for the decking. Install the joists temporarily using a pneumatic nail gun, then go back and install joist hangers at each end.

      Building the Staircase

    7. Calculate for the staircase. The two most important terms when designing a staircase are "rise" and "run." Rise is the height of the step, and run is the depth of the step (figure F).

      Math for Calculating How to Cut Staircase Stringers

      • Measure from the top of the decking to the foundation -- (84")
      • A good rule of thumb for the ideal rise is 7-5/8". (1/2 plus or minus is okay.)
      • Take the height of the stairs (84") and divide by the ideal rise -- 7.625 = 11.016.
      • Round to an even 11. There will be 11 steps with each one being 7-5/8" tall.
      • Next, multiple the rise (7.625) x (7.625 x 2 = 15.25). Subtract 15.25 from 25.
      • The run is 9.75 or 9-3/4" (figure G).

    8. Using a framing square, lay the square down on a 2 x 12 board (used for more support) with the 7.625" mark and the 9-3/4" mark along the same edge of the board. Draw the right angle onto the board formed by the angle of the framing square. Continue down the board 11 times. Take 1-1/2" off of the bottom rise to allow for all of the stair tread boards.

      Tip: Once you've cut the first board (figure H), you can use it as a template for the rest.

      Finish the Decking

    9. Finish laying the decking boards on the deck. Use coated decking screws or galvanized decking nails. Run the ends of the decking boards wild (figure I). Line up a chalk line with the outer edge of the posts with a 1-1/2" overhang and pop a chalk line. Repeat on the other side of the deck. Saw off the boards along the chalk line.

      Safety Alert: Make sure NO ONE is under the deck when you begin cutting the boards. Always remember to wear safety goggles and a mask when cutting wood!

    10. Saw the first stringer along the lines made for the rise and run of the stairs. (See figure H.) Use a reciprocating saw to make the large cuts and then come back with a jigsaw to cut perfect 90-degree angles. Use the first cut stringer as a template for the other two and a great tip is to position the template so as to saw off any imperfections in the board.

      Note: A circular saw will not be able to make a perfect angular cut for the stringer, so you'll need to use a jig saw to get the intricate corners perfectly (90-degree angle-- figure J).

      Installing the Stringers

    11. Install a 2 x 8 base board onto the top of the staircase landing. Attach the outer stringers to the support posts and the inner stringer to the middle of the plate board. Start with an outside stringer and line it up so it is flush with the top of the support board and is lined up in the middle of the support post. Nail into place.

    12. Repeat process with outer stringer. The bottom of the outside stringers will eventually be bolted to handrail posts. Place a level or straight board along the top of the first two stingers, and position the last stringer so it just touches the bottom. Nail the last stringer through the back of the support board (figure K).


    RESOURCES :

    The Home Depot Information

    To locate the Home Depot store nearest you, click here.

    The Home Depot U.S.A. Inc.
    Website: www.homedepot.com

    The Complete Guide to Building Decks (Black & Decker Home Improvement Library)
    ISBN: 0865734275
    Author: Editors of Creative Publishing International
    Order this title from Amazon.com.
    Creative Publishing International, Inc.
    Website: www.creativepub.com

    Building a Deck: Expert Advice From Start to Finish (Taunton's Build Like a Pro)
    ISBN: 1561584797
    Author: Scott Schuttner
    Order this title from Amazon.com.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com


    GUESTS :
    Rob Vannoy
    2008 Durham Rd.
    Rising Fawn, GA 30738
    Phone: 706-398-0616
    Fax: 706-398-0917
    Part owner
    Graham Vannoy Construction Company

    Hamilton Brock
    975 Highway 157
    Lookout Mountain, GA 30750
    Phone: 706-398-0616
    Graham Vannoy Builders

    Sid Forrester
    Senior Carpenter
    Graham Vannoy Construction Company
    See above for contact info

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE:


  • Gutter Repair
  • Landscaping Basics
  • Flooring
  • UV Air Sanitizer
  • Replacement Windows
  • Planter, Self-Watering
  • Hand-Painted Glasses
  • Choose Washer/Dryer
  • Backsplash Installation
  • Hand-Painted Bowls
  • Prepare for Vacation
  • Maintain Garage Door
  • Disinfect Bathroom
  • Romance Kit
  • Curb Appeal
  • Transport Equipment
  • Installing Undermount
  • Holiday Decorating
  • Family Scrapbook
  • Ice Candle
  • Selecting Doors
  • Spark Plug, Changing
  • Maintain Cabinets
  • Front Door Facelift
  • Change Windowpane