| Build a Deck: Continuing the Deck |
From "Build a Deck"
episode BDK-102 |
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Note: Click here for a materials list and complete instructions without images. Materials:
2 x 6 boards (pressure-treated pine)
2 x 2 boards (pressure-treated pine)
2 x 8 boards (pressure-treated pine)
2 x 12 boards (pressure-treated pine)
2 x 8 boards (pressure-treated pine)
4 x 4 posts (pressure-treated pine)
6 x 6 posts (pressure-treated pine)
Carriage bolts and nuts
Post anchors
Galvanized 3" decking screws
Concrete mix for footers (if applicable)
Roll of flashing
Tools Needed:
Circular saw
Power drill
Jigsaw
Reciprocating saw
Pneumatic Nail Gun kit (available at rental store)
Galvanized deck screws
Level
Framing square
Speed square
Chalk line
Tape Measure
Adjustable wrench
Safety goggles, gloves and mask
Masonry drill bit
Hammer
Utility knife
Before You Start: It's important to draw up a set of plans. This will help also in determining the amount of materials needed.
Know Your Deck Terminology
- Foundation -- When building a deck, it's always from the ground up, which means starting with a foundation. For this particular project, the crew built the deck from an existing patio. In most cases, the foundation is either a concrete pad or post installed on footers.
- Support Posts -- On top of the foundation, 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 vertical posts are installed to support the weight of the deck. These support posts are commonly placed four to six feet apart.
- Beams -- Horizontal boards -- or beams -- are attached to the post to help carry the weight and anchor the support posts. (2 x 8, 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 boards can be used for horizontal beams.)
- Joists -- Typically 2 x 8 boards that are installed perpendicular and between beams to help distribute weight and hold up the decking boards. Joists are usually installed 16 or 24 inches apart. Joists allow the use of decking boards.
- Decking -- The boards that span the area over the joists and form the deck floor.
- Handrails -- The horizontal boards that provide safety. Handrails can also enhance the beauty of any deck.
- Balusters -- The vertical boards that attach to the handrails. Sometimes called spindles. Balusters help to increase safety and can add to the beauty of the project as well.
- Staircase Landing -- Usually part of the decking plan.
- Stair Stringers -- The boards that support stairs.
- Treads -- The top boards on a stair.
Continuing the Deck
The joist hangers have been installed, and now it's time to layout the outer beam and get on with the rest of the project!
- Layout the outer beam and mark the joist locations every 16" (figure A).
- Cut a 2 x 8 the length of the deck, level it and nail it into the sill board. Place a temporary support board (figure B) on the end (maintaining beam level) and toenail all of the joists into place. Make sure the top of the joists are level with the top of the beam.
Tip: Be sure to have a good level to do this job. The longer the level the truer the readings. - Go back and install joist hangers on each end of every joist (figure C).
Note: Be sure to buy 1-1/2" galvanized joist-hanging nails to do this job. - Place two boards at each end of the beam making sure the beam is level. Toenail each end temporarily to the beam to provide support. Determine the length of each support post by measuring from the bottom of the beam to the top of the post anchor. Measure 1-1/2" on the side of the post and mark for notching.
- Use a circular saw with the blade set at maximum depth and cut along marked line. Then use a reciprocating saw to finish the job.
Tip: Setting the depth of the cut on your circular saw is easy. The saw has a gauge that tells you how deep the cut will be, and there's a lock to secure the depth. If your saw doesn't have a gauge, you can use a tape measure or you can use the line you've drawn on the lumber as the gauge. Safety Alert: Never make any adjustments to a saw that is plugged in. Always make sure the electric saw has no power when making any adjustment whatsoever! - Set the notched out post into place and on top of the steel anchor. Partially drive two nails into the top of the post (figure D). This will help support it. Level and plumb the post. Trace a line around the post anchor and mark the center where the bolt will be installed. Remove the anchor plate and drill a hole for the anchor bolt.
- Place the anchor back into place and hammer the bolt assemble down flush with the plate (figure E). Tighten the nut securely with a wrench. Replace the post onto the anchor, check for level and plumb, and this time nail the post permanently into the beam. The last step is to hammer four nails into each side of the post anchor.
- Double up with another 2 x 8 every fourth joist for nailing surface (due to the diagonal decking pattern). These double-up joists (figure F) will allow good nailing surface for decking boards that have to be spliced. Hang the double joists with double-joist hangers.
- Install blocking (figure G) next to the house between every joist for nailers.
- Begin decking installation by cutting a board with two 45-degree angles cuts (figure H). This will serve as the very first decking board.
- Take the measurements of the long side of that first board. This is how long the next decking board will be at the short point (figure I).
Compound Saw Tip: Be sure to keep your hands clear of the blade, and when you're cutting, be sure to let the drop-off piece of wood fall opposite the blade itself. Circular Saw Tip: Use a speed square as a guide to making straight cuts. Simply run the saw along the edge of the speed square (figure J). You can also use the 45-degree side of the speed square when making diagonal cuts. Note: For this particular project, rust-resistant 3" decking screws were used. "You can use galvanized, you can use coated material or you can use stainless steel," Wilson says, "but make sure it's rust resistant." This is extremely important if you want your fasteners to last a lifetime! - Place two rust-resistant screws at every joist. Remember to keep a gap between boards to allow for expansion and contraction. Insert a 10-penny nail into the gap, place the next decking board up against it, and screw it into place. This will help keep the gaps uniform.
RESOURCES :
The Home Depot Information
To locate the Home Depot store nearest you, click here.
The Home Depot U.S.A. Inc.
Website: www.homedepot.com
The Complete Guide to Building Decks (Black & Decker Home Improvement Library)
ISBN: 0865734275
Author: Editors of Creative Publishing International
Order this title from Amazon.com.
Creative Publishing International, Inc.
Website: www.creativepub.com
Building a Deck: Expert Advice From Start to Finish (Taunton's Build Like a Pro)
ISBN: 1561584797
Author: Scott Schuttner
Order this title from Amazon.com.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
GUESTS :
Rob Vannoy
2008 Durham Rd.
Rising Fawn, GA 30738
Phone: 706-398-0616
Fax: 706-398-0917
Part owner
Graham Vannoy Construction Company
Hamilton Brock
975 Highway 157
Lookout Mountain, GA 30750
Phone: 706-398-0616
Graham Vannoy Builders
Sid Forrester
Senior Carpenter
Graham Vannoy Construction Company
See above for contact info
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