Gazebos are available in kits and can easily be attached to most decks (figure A). You'll need to be sure there's plenty of support, however: the hot tub may weigh as much as 5,000 pounds. Materials:
Phillips-head screwdriver
Drill, with drill bits, spade bits and a Phillips driver bit
Hammer
Measuring tape
Ratchet and socket set
Circular saw
Reciprocating saw
Miter saw
Chalk line
Level
16-penny galvanized nails
2-1/2" galvanized deck screws
5/4" deck planks
2" x 10" beams
6" x 6" posts
4" x 4" posts
230-volt 60-amp GFCI circuit breaker
Circuit panel
6-3 grounded electrical cable
8' solid grounding stake and grounding cable
Safety glasses
To support your hot tub, use 6" by 6" posts rather than the 4" by 4" posts used for the rest of the deck. Use 2" by 10" beams to support the joists. You'll need to trim the tops of the 6" by 6" posts so that the beams will fit around them properly. - Use standard deck-building techniques to install the portion of the gazebo that doesn't require extra support. Set the posts in concrete for stability.
- Install the 6" by 6" posts, and measure and mark them to fit two 2" by 10" beams each (figure B). The beams will sandwich each post between them. Cut the beams using a reciprocating saw (figure C).
- Attach 2" by 10" beams on each side of the posts (figure D). Drill pilot holes, and use a ratchet and carriage bolts to secure the beams to the post.
- After you attach the beams, begin laying 2" by 6" joists in place (figure E). The joists are spaced 16" on center and toenailed in place with 16-penny galvanized nails (figure F).
- Cap the edges of the deck with 2" by 10" joists that extend above the rest of the joists to create a 1" lip flush with the deck planks (figure G). The cap will prevent the rough ends of the deck planks from being exposed.
- Attach 5/4" deck planks to the joists, using 2 1/2" galvanized screws (figure H). The planks should be placed as close together as possible so that there are no gaps between them.
- Set the hot tub in place in the gazebo, and level it all around (figure I ). Don't assume the deck is level: if the tub isn't level, the pump motor may wear out faster. You may want to check the tub occasionally and adjust it to compensate for settling.
The hot tub is virtually maintenance-free. The service panel is located behind an access door that lifts up (figure J). Be sure you don't position your hot tub in a location that blocks the access door. The main components of the service panel are a power panel (figure K), which connects to the 220-volt power supply, and a drain valve, located at the bottom of the service panel so you can drain the tub as needed. Take appropriate safety precautions when installing your hot tub. Remember that high-voltage electricity is going to be used near water. Building codes require a 230-volt 60-amp GFCI dedicated circuit (figure L) for hot tubs. Building codes also require that you use a 6-3 grounded cable, which has one neutral wire, two hot wires and a ground wire. If you have to bury the cable, be sure to use cable rated for underground use. - Use a separate electrical panel for the hot tub, and install it nearby so that it can be shut off in the event of an emergency (figure M). The GFCI circuit breaker can be expensive, but it's necessary for your safety. If you're installing the hot tub on a concrete slab, you can ground it to the wire mesh in the concrete. Otherwise you'll need to clamp the hot-tub grounding wire to an 8' solid grounding stake driven into the ground (figure N).
- After the tub is in place, install the railing and balusters on the gazebo.
RESOURCES :
Quantum Jacuzzi Hot Tub
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