DIY Network

Kitchen Cabinet Installation From "Ask DIY Home Improvement" episode DADH-205

A tiny kitchen, but with lots of cabinet space!

Q: (from Diane in Myrtle Beach, SC): I’m redoing my kitchen and I’d like to replace the cabinets myself. Can you help me remove the old ones and install the new ones?

A: (from DIY expert and licensed contractor Brad Staggs): In this episode, I’ll show you how we removed old cabinets so they could be used for storage elsewhere. You’ll learn how to squeeze the most cabinet space out of your kitchen. I’ll also tell you contractor tricks for installing new cabinets yourself so you can save time and money.

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Materials:

14-volt cordless power drill
utility knife
measuring tape
hammer
nails
screws

Cabinet Installation

1. Turn off the water supply and supply lines.

2. The countertops, base and wall are attached in the same way. They’re attached to the wall, to the studs and sometimes to each other. I suggest using a cordless power drill for this project. I suggest a 14-volt because it has enough power without being very heavy.

	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	The space was not very functional...
	but look at the kitchen now!

Tip: Use a utility knife to cut the caulk bead between the countertop and wall (figure A). This will prevent you from ripping drywall when tearing out the countertop.

3. We were careful when unscrewing the cabinets because they were being taken downstairs for extra storage (figure B).

4. With the room cleared, we removed a large window because we wanted to gain some extra space for cabinets and appliances (figure C).

5. We took measurements of the room and all the door and window openings to a home center and had experts there come up with a design (figure D). A few weeks later, our cabinets arrived.

6. It was time to begin hanging cabinets and we got started on the top and in a corner. The first step is measuring. Because the floor was more level than the ceiling in our house, we measured up from the floor and made a mark to indicate the bottom edge of the first cabinet.

7. We also checked for studs. The construction of old homes can make it hard to find studs. Sometimes plaster and lathe confuses a stud finder, so try an old contractor’s trick. Knock on the wall and then drive a nail into it until you hit something solid (figure E)...then mark the spot. Don’t skip this step! Cabinets are heavy and must be screwed into studs.

8. With our cabinet, we needed to mark the back and make a cutout for the electrical outlet to the microwave.

9. We also needed to attach a fill piece to cover the gap between the cabinet and the wall.

10. We lifted the cabinet into place and then slid a t-square underneath to hold it. We lined it up on the bottom mark and used a level to make sure the cabinet was straight. Be extra careful with the first cabinet, its placement affects every other cabinet in the row.

11. We attached the cabinet to the wall by driving screws right through the back of the cabinet and into the studs. We used 2-1/2 inch screws fitted with washers for this part of the job.

12. For the second cabinet, we lifted it into place and made sure the top edge lined up with the top edge of the first cabinet (figure F). Once it was level, we put the t-square underneath and screwed the two cabinets together.

13. We then used two inch screws and drove two or three through the front frames of the cabinets and attached them to the wall. This process was continued around the room. It’s a good idea to drill pilot holes before lifting the cabinets into place.

Tip: Remove shelves! They add a lot of weight. If you can't remove them, just make sure you don’t drive a screw through your new shelves.

14. With the top cabinets in place, we installed the base cabinets. To leave space for the stove, we used a level to line up the base cabinet with the cabinet above.

15. To level the cabinets, we put shims underneath and in the back along the wall. We then attached the cabinet to the wall by driving screws through the back and into the studs. We then cut off the shims with a utility knife.

16. On the sink wall, we centered the sink cabinet under the window and put the final two cabinets on either side.

17. The space behind the door was very tight, so we used a wall cabinet as a base cabinet. It took up less floor space but was also four inches shorter than a standard base cabinet. To make up the difference, we built a platform out of two-by-fours and set the cabinet on top of it. Remember to attach the cabinets together and to the wall.

18. We used fill pieces to close the gaps on the edge.

19. The key to fitting fill pieces into uneven walls is you need to scribe them. Use a compass to trace the wall’s irregular surface onto the fill piece, and then trim it to ensure a tight fit.

Next: Sink Installation