DIY Network

Interlocking Block Wall and Stairs Using concrete pavers to create a wall with the look of natural stone From "Rock Solid" episode DROC-201

	The retaining wall, before . . .
	and after.

Dean Marsico and Derek Stearns, hosts of DIY's Rock Solid, love stone. But stone just isn't practical for every project--like the 80-foot-long retaining wall featured in this project. That would be a lot of stone, mortar and time.

The solution: Use an interlocking concrete block system to build a wall that doesn't sacrifice style for substance and that goes up in a fraction of the time it would take to complete a similar wall with stone.

Dean and Derek replace the existing stairs and a crumbling stone wall with new steps and a retaining wall that tapers from three feet at the house down to the street level.

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	The stairs and wall, before . . .
	and after.

Tools:

wheelbarrow
spade shovel
landscaping rake
hand tamper
tape measure
six foot level
two foot level
bullet level
line level
string
inverted marking paint
rubber mallet
trowel
stone hammer
chipping hammer
chisels
retaining wall adhesive
caulking gun
brush
plate (gas) compactor*
loader backhoe* (or someone to help with demolition on larger projects)
wet saw*

*optional, but recommended

Stone masons, and hosts of DIY's Rock Solid, Derek Stearns and Dean Marsico.

Materials:

Roman Pisa components: stretcher tapered, full cap tapered, half unit, corner, coping stone
crusher run (a combination of 3/4 inch crushed stone and concrete sand)
3/4-inch crushed stone
perforated PVC pipe
landscape filter fabric/mesh

Note: The quantities needed for each of these materials varies with application. Dean and Derek suggest taking your project dimensions to a local dealer, who will calculate the amount of each product needed.

Important: If your project will be taller than four feet, contact the manufacturer or distributor about additional instructions for support.

Demolition and Digging the Footing

Safety Alert: Before you begin digging, call your local utility authorities and request that they mark out underground pipes or cables. You don't want to disturb these when excavating.

• Begin with the design. Even though Dean and Derek are replacing an existing wall, it is always helpful to measure and map out your project before starting. That way it's easier to calculate the materials needed. Order your materials and have them delivered to the site (figures A and B ).

  Figure A

  Figure B

  
  

• The process of installing interlocking concrete blocks is the same regardless of whether the project is 80 feet long or 8 feet long. But the larger the project, the more helpful power tools will be. In this case, Dean and Derek have a big footing and a lot of demolition to do so they have a friend with a loader backhoe help them get rid of the existing wall and dig the footing for the new wall (figures C and D).

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  

• The footing should be approximately 12 inches deep. This is deep enough to create a compacted six-inch crusher run base and to bury the first row of the six-inch tall blocks below grade. Dean and Derek also dig back approximately twenty-four inches. The footing should have 12 inches behind the 12-inch concrete blocks for a crushed stone drainage space. The footing is roughed out by the loader backhoe. Dean and Derek follow up with shovels to refine the shape of the wall (figures E and F).

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

• After excavation, compact the dug out earth. The soil will be weaker after excavation and the wall should be built on an even and sturdy base. The earth can be compacted with a hand tamper, but if the wall is large a plate compactor makes it much easier (figures G and H).

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  

• Follow with three inches of crusher run and compact (figures I and J). The three inches should be compacted until firm enough to stand on without leaving a mark. Follow with another three inches of crusher run and compact that as well. The finished crusher run base should be six inches below grade.

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

  Figure K

• Before you begiin, you should know something about the types of blocks needed to build this type wall (figure K) They are:
  • tapered stretcher: Has a tongue and groove system on the top and the bottom and will be used for the main body of the wall.
    
  • full cap tapered (full size cap): Grooved on the bottom, this unit is used on the top of the wall and in areas where pieces with tongues can't be used.
    
  • half unit (half size cap) : Grooved on the bottom and smooth on top, this piece is used to fill in spaces usually at the end.
    
  • corner stone: This unit is without a tongue or a groove and has a tumbled face exposed on two sides and is used for the corners of the wall and for the stairs.
    
  • coping stone: A thinner and square-shaped concrete block that tops the wall off with extra style.
  
  

  Figure L

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