DIY Network

Blog Cabin: Bathroom Tile and Radiant Heat Flooring Mats The bathroom in DIY's Blog Cabin gets some stylish tile and something radiant to warm the feet on cold mornings. From "Blog Cabin" episode DBLG-109

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	Figure E
	Figure F

3. Decide on design and layout, and choose starting point (figure E).

• Note: When choosing a starting point, choose the point to where your eye is most drawn. Often on floors this is the center, but that might not always be the case. So keep that in mind when determining your design and layout. This will help you use as many full tiles as possible, which helps to minimize the number of tiles you have to custom cut.

• Note: At your starting point, it might be helpful to use chalk lines to keep your design square.

4. Choose your setting material and prepare it (figure F).

• Note: For a DIY project, consider your experience level, the type of tile you plan to install, and the sub-floor material your tile will sit on. For our porcelain tile and cement backer board, we're using thin-set mortar. As with all chemicals, make sure to refer to the manual for any safety precautions.

Figure G
Figure H

5. At your designated starting point, spread your setting material over a small area using a trowel. With the notched edge of the trowel, comb the material into ridges (figure G).

6. Place full tile pieces here, press downward (figure H) and continue to work your way out according to your desired layout. In this way, as you work your way to corners and edges of the room, you'll be making certain that any tiles that need to be custom cut will be in the less visible areas of the room.

• Note: To achieve an even tiling job, use consistent measurements for the space between your tiles where the grout will go. This measurement may vary depending on what you prefer, but 1/8th of an inch is a good standard.

• Note: Since most adhesives set in 20 to 30 minutes, quickly wipe away any excess. With thin-set mortar, use a sponge and water.

7. After placing a few rows of tile, check for level and carefully pound the tiles into place with your hand or with a rubber mallet. This will help to properly set the tiles.

8. As you reach the corners and crannies of your room, you'll need to measure and plan to custom cut the tiles to be put in the odd-shaped spaces. Cut using tile nippers or a tile saw.

• Note: If you'll be installing any new appliances into / onto the areas around which you are tiling, now would be a good time to dry fit the appliances into their designated areas to make sure no changes will need to be made prior to finishing your tile job. Our job requires we tile vertically around the tub surround, so it is important to see exactly what areas will be covered with the tub and which areas will be open for us to tile upon after we apply a backer board.

• Note: Always wear protective eyewear when cutting tile! Before cutting tile, all cut lines should be marked with a pencil. Use a tile cutter for all straight cuts. It scores the tile and then snaps it along that score. To cut away small sections of tile, use tile nippers which take small "bites" out of tile. For more complex curves or edges, use a rod saw which can make more accurate and smooth cuts. After making any tile cut, smooth the edges with sandpaper or a tile sander.

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	Figure I
	Figure J

9. After placing all of your tiles, mix your grout to a thick paste and apply, pressing it between tiles using a grout float (figure I). Spread grout paste with a firm, sharp rubber float. Work the grout paste into the joints until completely filled, making certain the paste is not just sitting on top or "bridging the joint". Pack all joints firmly.

10. Remove all excess grout from the face of the tiles with the edge of the grout float. Work the float at a 45-degree angle, diagonally to the grout joints, to avoid pulling out the paste.

11. Remove any remaining grout with a damp (not wet) sponge or towel (figure J). Work the strokes diagonally to the tile joints and allow floor to dry. Wait about 20 minutes for grout to set and repeat the rinsing of the tiles. Then let grout set for at least 24 hours. Wet down the grout joints with clean cold water during this period.

• Note: For light traffic flow areas, allow grout to set for approximately 12 hours. For heavier traffic, let set for 24 hours.

• Note: If a haze appears on the surface of the tiles after grout is dry, buff off with clean dry cloth.

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