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Blog Cabin WEB EXTRA: Log Cabin Primer Fourteen essential things you should consider before you commit to building or buying a log home of your own. From "Blog Cabin" episode DBLG-101

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6. Handcrafted or manicured?

Milled logs have been put through a mill, planer or lathe to be cut into a specific profile. All the logs used in a milled log home are generally a uniform shape and they are usually air- or kiln-dried. Manufactured log homes use logs milled to strict tolerances, often tongue-and-grooved, and come numbered and packaged with the materials needed to build the structure.
Handcrafted log homes are constructed by skilled craftsmen who will strip, shape and custom fit each log.

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7. Gaps Between Logs

Inevitably, as your logs shrink, the gaps between logs widens. That can make it awfully drafty. Why do you think all these cabin dwellers are walking around in heavy flannel? If for no other reason that fashion vanity, get out your caulking gun!
Make sure, however, that the caulking you choose is specifically designed for log homes. Technique is going to be important as well. For example, a lot of professionals will advise using backer rods in log joints to ensure that the caulk adheres. Coincidently, they're also good insulators.

8. Foundations

There are several types of foundations, including a concrete slab, a foundation wall to allow for a basement and a pier piling approach. The pier foundation is the easiest and the favorite of first-time log cabin builders.

Regardless of your approach, the tenets of a good foundation are its ability to safely support the load, and its resiliency in the event of an earthquake or gale force winds. The terrain, drainage and the soil character will factor in to your foundation approach. And don't forget to look into local building codes as well as the standard engineering practices.

9. Sill Logs

A few special considerations need to be addressed for these logs, which are the first logs above the foundation.

First, like all wall logs, they need to be at least eight inches in diameter. Next, the entire bottom side of their bearing length will need to be flattened, and they should be set on a vapor, weather and air barrier – not in direct contact with masonry. Positioned at least 12 inches above the grade and firmly anchored, they will also need flashing attached or drip cut to protect against water damage.

10. The Roof

For roofs that are constructed from logs or timber, The International Log Builders' Association says that you should only use "straight-grain, or moderately right-hand spiral grain material" due to its superior bending strength.

Constructing roofs with wide overhangs will protect the log beams and walls of the house, depending on the height of the wall. The roof beams that extend outside of the structure need special protection from the weather and insect infiltration.

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