| Installing a Banquette: Build Frame for Seating, Build Facings for Door Openings and Install Top |
From "Weekend Remodeling"
episode WKR-113 |
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Prep Work, Build Base, Redirect Air Vent, Relocate Electrical Outlets and Attach Top to Base = 3 hours
Build Frame for Bench Seating, Build Facings for Door Openings and Install Top = 4 hours
Install the Doors and Bead Board = 4 hours
Install Chair Rail, Quarter Round and Decorative Half Round Trims and Paint Trim = 4 hours
Total time spent = 15 hours over 2-1/2 days On a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the hardest, this project is a 3. Approximately $700 was spent on supplies; a contractor would charge approximately $1,500. Materials: Power nailer (rented)
Utility knife
Prybar
Primer, good paint and brushes
Compound miter saw
A/C diverter
Chair rail wood trim
Quarter round trim
Decorative half round molding
Birch plywood
Circular saw
Miter saw
2 x 4's
Hammer
Chisel
Nail gun
Premade floor air vent
Duct tape
Silicone
Electric drill and bits
Wood screws
2 x 2's
Jigsaw
Cabinet decorative end panels
Construction adhesive
Painters tape
Door panels with circular cutouts precut for hidden hinges
Hidden hinges for each door
Bead board
Caulk and caulking gun
Wood putty - Cut all the 2 x 4 stud braces out making sure to allow 3/4" for the plywood finish.
- Find and mark the studs in the wall. Measure up from the base and draw your line.
- Attach the 2 x 2's into the wall studs with screws (figure A).
Expert Tip: If you are having trouble a stud, find a corner or angle and measure out 16" in either direction to locate the next one. Studs are placed 16 inches on center to accommodate most building materials. - Add 2 x 4 support to the edges where there are no wall studs (figure B).
- Place the front studs so they won't show when the cabinet doors are open.
- Connect your front studs together as you work your way around the base.
- To cut out holes in the face of the plywood for the doors, mark the plywood ( figure C) making sure the holes you are going to cut is 3/4 inch smaller than your door.
- Line up a circular saw over the mark and drop it into the plywood. Make sure to cut into the rough side so that you won't splinter the good side of the wood.
Note: Because you have several holes to cut out, a circular will make it go much faster, and will give you nice straight lines. - So you don't overlap your cut lines, stop just short of the corners and then use a jigsaw to finish cutting out the door opening (figure D).
- On the center section, you need to cut out for the doors and the vent for the new air conditioning duct. Begin by drilling some pilot holes in the corners (figure E) and finish cutting it out with a jigsaw.
- Set them in place and nail them to the frame. For the ends of the seating, cut pieces to sit flush to the frame (figure F).
- Cut the tops out just like you cut the base, except they should be 3/4 of an inch wider (figure G) to allow for the overhang for the seat. Measure as before, making your cut, and then nailing it to the frame. Repeat the process until the seat top is complete.
Expert Tip: Renting a power nailer for a small job may seem like an unnecessary expense, but when you consider the time and energy you save by not using a hammer, you may find out it was the smartest money you ever spent.
RESOURCES :
Waverly Fabrics
Website: www.waverly.com
Terence Conrad Kitchens: The Hub of the Home
ISBN: 060961052X
Author: Terence Conrad
Order this title from Amazon.
Clarkson Potter/The Crown Publishing Group/Random House
Website: www.randomhouse.com
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