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  • Concrete Countertops: Mixing the Concrete
  • From "Weekend Handyman"
    episode WKH-104
    advertisement

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Host Paul Ryan demonstrates how to make and install a concrete countertop in this episode of Weekend Handyman.

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Ryan chose green for this particular project, but you can go with almost any color you want for your concrete countertop.

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

    Note: Click here for a materials list and complete instructions without images.

    Time: 2 days -- and extra time for the concrete to cure.

    Difficulty Rating: It's rated a 3 on a scale of 1 to 5.


    Materials for Complete Project:

    Palm sander or random orbital sander
    Screw gun and screws
    Buffer
    Bolt cutters
    Caulk gun and silicone caulk
    Five 1-gal. buckets
    Magnesium float
    Jigsaw
    Circular saw
    Table saw
    Cement mixer
    Melamine
    100 percent silicone
    Denatured alcohol
    Kerosene-based release oil
    Thick gauge wire mesh (hog fence)
    Fiberglass or masonite
    Type 1 or 2 cement
    Two parts rock (3/8" pea gravel -- a natural lightweight aggregate)
    Three parts sand
    Water
    Water reducer
    Pigment
    Mask
    Goggles
    Heavy rubber gloves
    2 x 4
    150 grit sandpaper
    Shop vacuum cleaner
    Putty knife
    Damp rag
    Water-based sealer
    3/16" paint roller
    Food-safe wax
    Tape
    2 x 6

    Time to Mix the Concrete

    The mixing of the concrete will be the most challenging task in making a concrete kitchen countertop. Ryan suggests that you mix your own concrete to create the most sturdy mixture possible

    1. Determine the rough volume of the countertop -- for 1-1/2" layer of concrete use 15 lbs. per square foot. From the inside of the mold, measure the length, width and height and multiply all three to determine the square footage.

      Cement recipe:

      1 part cement (type 1 or 2)
      2 parts rock (3/8-inch pea gravel)
      3 parts sand (finest aggregate)
      Water, water reducer and pigment (your choice)

      Note: If you are going to use pigment, it should be 4 percent of the weight of the cement. Measure carefully.

      Safety Alert: It's important to wear heavy gloves, a mask and protective eye goggles when mixing cement.

      Preparation:

      Add small amount of water into mixer. Slowly add cement, more water and then add sand, pea gravel, more water, pigment (figure A -- note that pigment can be weighed on a home scale), more water and water reducer until consistency is like thick oatmeal.

      The best way to tell if you have the proper consistency is to scoop up a lump in your hand, and if it sticks together (figure B), it's ready! If you wiggle your fingers, the mixture should only "ooze" through, not drip or pour.

      Note: If you're having problems with the mixture, don't hesitate to call your local concrete store to get assistance.

    2. Transfer wet concrete from mixer to a 5-gallon bucket. Pour concrete into mold and evenly distribute.

      Tip: It's best to have someone help when pouring the mixture into the mold.

    3. Use magnesium float (figure C) to spread concrete.

      Tip: The best way to evenly distribute the concrete is to lightly vibrate the float, which is called "puddling." This helps reduce the amount of air pockets that may form in the mixture.

    4. "Screed" with 2-by-4 sliding back and forth over concrete (figure D). A concrete mound will gather as you screed. Simply remove the excess when you get to the end of the form.

    5. Put the hog-fence brace reinforcement on the surface, and be sure to center it (figure E) and force half-way down into the concrete form.

    6. After the hog-fence reinforcement is in, you'll need to screed again.

    7. Vibrate sides of form with palm sander (figure F) to release as much trapped air as possible to get rid of any air pockets.

    8. Let it cure from two to four days.

      Note: The Ideal temperature for drying concrete is between 70 and 80 degrees. Don't disturb the concrete in any way, shape or form during the drying process!



    RESOURCES :
    Concrete Counter Fabrication and Design Concrete Artwork

    Product Tips:

    • It takes four days to cure the wet concrete in the mold.
    • Vibrating the concrete mold helps to lessen the air bubbles.
    • Melamine is the best material to use for making a mold.

    Concrete Countertops: Design, Form, and Finishes for the New Kitchen and Bath
    ISBN: 1561584843
    Author: Fu-Tung Cheng
    Order this title from Amazon.com.
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com


    GUESTS :

    Andrew Hankee
    Concrete Artist
    HardArt Studios
    2105 Wabash Ave.
    St. Paul, MN 55114
    Phone: 651-644-8668
    Fax: 651-695-1310
    E-mail: ahankee@hardartstudios.com

    Mike Hancock
    Concrete Artist
    HardArt Studios
    See address, phone/fax above
    E-mail: mhancock@hardartstudios.com

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