| Concrete Countertops: Why Use Concrete for Kitchen Countertops? |
From "Weekend Handyman"
episode WKH-104 |
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Note: Click here for a materials list and complete instructions without images. Time: 2 days -- and extra time for the concrete to cure. Difficulty Rating: It's rated a 3 on a scale of 1 to 5.
Materials for Complete Project: Palm sander or random orbital sander
Screw gun and screws
Buffer
Bolt cutters
Caulk gun and silicone caulk
Five 1-gal. buckets
Magnesium float
Jigsaw
Circular saw
Table saw
Cement mixer
Melamine
100 percent silicone
Denatured alcohol
Kerosene-based release oil
Thick gauge wire mesh (hog fence)
Fiberglass or masonite
Type 1 or 2 cement
Two parts rock (3/8" pea gravel -- a natural lightweight aggregate)
Three parts sand
Water
Water reducer
Pigment
Mask
Goggles
Heavy rubber gloves
2 x 4
150 grit sandpaper
Shop vacuum cleaner
Putty knife
Damp rag
Water-based sealer
3/16" paint roller
Food-safe wax
Tape
2 x 6 Getting Started - Remove existing countertop (figure A).
- Measure the cabinets corner to corner and add 1-1/2" (figure B) on the three exposed sides for overlay.
Tip: Before building the mold or form for the concrete, you'll need a large, level table (figure C) on which to build the mold and pour the concrete. For this particular project, Ryan used a table made of 3/4" plywood over a grid of 2 x 6's. This will minimize the deflection inside the mold of the weight of the wet concrete. The mold will be made using 3/4" melamine (inexpensive and up to the task) with laminate on both sides. - Build the form or mold for the concrete by cutting melamine the exact size of the countertop (figure D).
- Cut 2" melamine strips for the sides and ends (four altogether).
- First, use the old countertop as a template and outline the corners (figure E).
- Smooth out the edges with an orbital sander.
- Screw strips and bottom together with 1-3/4" screws to create a box (figure F) for the concrete mold.
- Use fiberglass or masonite strips to create curves on the corners (figure G).
- Tape edges by seams to create clean edges for silicone.
- Seal edges where melamine comes together with 100-percent silicone.
- Use denatured alcohol on finger to wipe the silicone smooth.
Note: If you don't silicone all the edges, they won't be sealed properly to do this particular project. Tip: Since the silicone will form the edge of the countertop, it's important that you smooth it out neatly and evenly to form a smooth edge. - Carefully peal the tape into itself to pull it off. Go slow! You don't want to leave any silicone on the form itself because it will discolor the concrete later.
- Affix any items for "relief" or "inlay" effects (these are objects that will stay in place once the concrete is set/cured) with spray adhesive to the base of the form. Ryan used a small leaf (figure H) as the relief effect for this project.
- To make sure the concrete will release from the mold easily, cover every surface of the mold with kerosene-based release oil.
Safety Alert: When working with kerosene-based products, be sure to have plenty of ventilation. - Cut "hog fence" wire mesh (figure I) for concrete reinforcement leaving 1-1/2" at edges. Bolt cutters work perfectly for this task.
RESOURCES :
Concrete Counter Fabrication and Design Concrete Artwork
Product Tips:
- It takes four days to cure the wet concrete in the mold.
- Vibrating the concrete mold helps to lessen the air bubbles.
- Melamine is the best material to use for making a mold.
Concrete Countertops: Design, Form, and Finishes for the New Kitchen and Bath
ISBN: 1561584843
Author: Fu-Tung Cheng
Order this title from Amazon.com.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
GUESTS :
Andrew Hankee
Concrete Artist
HardArt Studios
2105 Wabash Ave.
St. Paul, MN 55114
Phone: 651-644-8668
Fax: 651-695-1310
E-mail: ahankee@hardartstudios.com
Mike Hancock
Concrete Artist
HardArt Studios
See address, phone/fax above
E-mail: mhancock@hardartstudios.com
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